Cover thumbnail 1
Cover thumbnail 2
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Image of Gallery in South Kensington
On display at V&A South Kensington
Islamic Middle East, Room 42, The Jameel Gallery

Cover

1600-1700 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

The designs of domestic embroideries like this one are clearly based on the more expensive woven silks popular at the Ottoman court. The embroideries have the same flowers, serrated leaves and other motifs as the woven silks, but their shapes are often less well-defined.

The embroideries required less costly materials (mainly linen and silk thread) and women could make them in their own homes. Large panels served as quilt-covers and hangings. Smaller pieces were used as napkins, sashes and towels, and for wrapping one’s possessions on the way to the public bath.

Most of the embroidery is done in simple stitches, such as darning stitch, couching and running stitch.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Linen, embroidered with silk in fine darning over one thread
Brief description
Quilt-cover fragment, silk-embroidered linen with vertical design of undulating parallel lines and flower stems, Ottoman Turkey, 1600-1700
Physical description
Cover, incomplete, linen embroidered with silk in fine darning over one thread.
47 warp and 47 weft threads per inch.
There is a border with a segmented undulating stem decorated with the same elements as the field.
The field is decorated with undulating parellel stems which have a central white zigzagged line with alternating red or blue triangles. From the stem grow red stems some with two white flowers, some with a red and green rose bud and others with a spray of composite flowers. Some of the minor stems are green or blue; any leaves are small and vary in colour.
Dimensions
  • Length: 75cm
  • Width: 140cm
plus board
Style
Gallery label
Jameel Gallery 1 Part of Hanging or Quilt-cover Turkey 1600–1700 This embroidered design is organised in a series of parallel wavy lines, rising through the textile. Five different flowers sprout from this trellis, rendered in red, blue and green against the cream linen background. The flowers range from relatively naturalistic blooms, such as rosebuds, to more dramatic floral stylisations. Linen embroidered with silk in fine darning stitch Museum no. T.99-1923 (2012)
Subjects depicted
Summary
The designs of domestic embroideries like this one are clearly based on the more expensive woven silks popular at the Ottoman court. The embroideries have the same flowers, serrated leaves and other motifs as the woven silks, but their shapes are often less well-defined.

The embroideries required less costly materials (mainly linen and silk thread) and women could make them in their own homes. Large panels served as quilt-covers and hangings. Smaller pieces were used as napkins, sashes and towels, and for wrapping one’s possessions on the way to the public bath.

Most of the embroidery is done in simple stitches, such as darning stitch, couching and running stitch.
Bibliographic references
  • Illustrated in 'Ottoman Embroidery' by Marianne Ellis and Jennifer Wearden (V&A Publication, 2001) Plates 24 and 25
  • Baker, Patricia, L. Islamic Textiles, London: British Museum Press, 1995. 192p., ill. ISBN 0-7141-2522-9. Fig pp. 84-5
Collection
Accession number
T.99-1923

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Record createdFebruary 1, 2001
Record URL
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