Fragment thumbnail 1
Fragment thumbnail 2
Not currently on display at the V&A

Fragment

1550-1700 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Judging from its shape, this fragment may have been taken from a Roman Catholic priest's vestment. The crimson silk ground indicates that the vestment would probably have been worn on the feast day of a martyr. The repeat pattern of double-headed eagles over a stylised vase may have been intended to be an emblem adopted by the Order of St Augustine under Hapsburg patronage. The original emblem is the Royal Hapsburg eagles standing over a Cardinal's hat (probably symbolising the authority of the Crown and the Church), which rests over the Augustinian crest of a heart pierced with arrows. This vestment was probably woven in the East, in Macau, for Augustinian missionaries stationed in the Philippines. The finished textiles were probably brought via Chinese junks sailing to the Philippines.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Lampas, silks and gilt paper wrapped thread
Brief description
Textile fragment, part of a garment, lampas, silks and gilt paper wrapped thread, possibly made in Guangzhou, probably made in Macau, China, 1550-1700
Physical description
Textile fragment of woven silk in blue, yellow and white with gilt paper strips on a red satin ground. Chinese weaving from a Spanish design depicting a double-headed eagle over a stylised vase. The double-headed eagle is holding two arrows in its claws which penetrate the centre of the vase below. Surrounding this device are scrolling floral and foliated stems where tropical birds are perched. Part of a garment.
Dimensions
  • Length: 61cm (maximum)
  • Width: 48cm (maximum)
  • Length: 24in
  • Width: 18.75in
Style
Object history
Acquisition method and source not identified in the Asia Department registers, accessioned in 1910. This acquisition information reflects that found in the Asia Department registers, as part of a 2022 provenance research project.
Production
Chinese weaving from a Spanish design of the early 17th century
Summary
Judging from its shape, this fragment may have been taken from a Roman Catholic priest's vestment. The crimson silk ground indicates that the vestment would probably have been worn on the feast day of a martyr. The repeat pattern of double-headed eagles over a stylised vase may have been intended to be an emblem adopted by the Order of St Augustine under Hapsburg patronage. The original emblem is the Royal Hapsburg eagles standing over a Cardinal's hat (probably symbolising the authority of the Crown and the Church), which rests over the Augustinian crest of a heart pierced with arrows. This vestment was probably woven in the East, in Macau, for Augustinian missionaries stationed in the Philippines. The finished textiles were probably brought via Chinese junks sailing to the Philippines.
Associated object
T.169-1929 (Design)
Collection
Accession number
T.215-1910

About this object record

Explore the Collections contains over a million catalogue records, and over half a million images. It is a working database that includes information compiled over the life of the museum. Some of our records may contain offensive and discriminatory language, or reflect outdated ideas, practice and analysis. We are committed to addressing these issues, and to review and update our records accordingly.

You can write to us to suggest improvements to the record.

Suggest feedback

Record createdJune 25, 2009
Record URL
Download as: JSONIIIF Manifest