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Skirt

1850-1900 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

When worn, the pleated skirt is wrapped around the body in much the same way as a kilt. The pleats swing out to either side as the wearer moves. The Chinese woman who wore this skirt probably had bound feet and would have swayed from side to side accentuating the swing. It is likely that Chinese women wore these skirts around their hips rather than right on the waist; the pleats fall more gracefully if the skirt is not pulled in at waist-level. The pleats are held down at the top in a V-shape with simple running stitches. This gives some elasticity to the pleats and ensures that they swing well. There are twelve pleats in each pleated section. Six are folded over one way and six the other so that each group faces into the centre. Every individual pleat is defined with narrow bias-cut black satin which is left plain near the top part of the garment, and is covered with embroidery, in shades of blue, on the lower third. A tiny, flat gold-woven edge further enhances each pleat. It is only the lower part that will show beneath the three-quarter-length gown that was traditionally teamed up with this style of skirt.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Silk damask, embroidered in silk and metallic threads
Brief description
Skirt, woven silk embroidered in coloured silks and gold thread, China, Qing dynasty, 1850-1900.
Physical description
Woman's skirt of yellow silk, embroidered in coloured silks and gold thread with butterfleis and flowers.
Dimensions
  • Length: 104in
  • Width: 30in
Style
Credit line
Given by Miss Baxter in memory of Miss Kate Baxter
Object history
Given by Miss Baxter in memory of Miss Kate Baxter, accessioned in 1912. This acquisition information reflects that found in the Asia Department registers, as part of a 2022 provenance research project.
Summary
When worn, the pleated skirt is wrapped around the body in much the same way as a kilt. The pleats swing out to either side as the wearer moves. The Chinese woman who wore this skirt probably had bound feet and would have swayed from side to side accentuating the swing. It is likely that Chinese women wore these skirts around their hips rather than right on the waist; the pleats fall more gracefully if the skirt is not pulled in at waist-level. The pleats are held down at the top in a V-shape with simple running stitches. This gives some elasticity to the pleats and ensures that they swing well. There are twelve pleats in each pleated section. Six are folded over one way and six the other so that each group faces into the centre. Every individual pleat is defined with narrow bias-cut black satin which is left plain near the top part of the garment, and is covered with embroidery, in shades of blue, on the lower third. A tiny, flat gold-woven edge further enhances each pleat. It is only the lower part that will show beneath the three-quarter-length gown that was traditionally teamed up with this style of skirt.
Collection
Accession number
CIRC.771-1912

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Record createdJune 25, 2009
Record URL
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