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Robe

1796-1820 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Manchu woman's dragon robe, semi-formal wear (jifu). Right side fastening (the four buttons have been taken away but one can still see stitches marks), long and tight sleeves, horsehoof cuffs (matixiu), no collar, slit at sides. Bright yellow silk satin damask with self-patterned large flowers lining. Tapestry-woven (kesi) garment, bright yellow ground, coloured silks, gold thread and details made by hand with a brush and coloured ink. The lower-sleeves are made of yellow silk twill weave.

The decoration features nine five-clawed dragons (three on the front, plus one beneath the flap, three on the back and one on each shoulder) pursuing sacred pearls amid clouds, bats, shou character and symbolical devices. The gown bears the Twelve Imperial emblems ( the Rock, the Constellation, The sacrificial cups, the Flames, The Sun and Moon disc, The Water seeds, The dish of Millet, the Fu, The Axe Head). The sleeves, below the level of the yellow with its proper edging of li-shui and waves, have an extra band of black kesi, with dragons in profile chasing a pearl above mountains, wave and shallow li-shui, then a horse-shoe cuff with dragon full-face above waves surrounded by cloud-bands and bats.At the hem are the standing water ( lishui) and rocks appearing among waves.

The kesi is of a high quality (very tight) and the details are very finely made by hand. The quality of the weaving, the 12 Imperials emblems, the colour of the robe could indicate it have been worn my a woman of the Imperial family, possibly a high ranking concubine, princess or consort under the Jiaqing period (1796-1820), however, in absence of provenance, we do not have any certainty.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Silk tapestry (<i>kesi</i>)
Brief description
Manchu woman's dragon robe (jifu), silk tapestry (kesi), China, Qing dynasty, Jiaqing period (1796-1820).
Physical description
Manchu woman's dragon robe, semi-formal wear (jifu). Right side fastening (the four buttons have been taken away but one can still see stitches marks), long and tight sleeves, horsehoof cuffs (matixiu), no collar, slit at sides. Bright yellow silk satin damask with self-patterned large flowers lining. Tapestry-woven (kesi) garment, bright yellow ground, coloured silks, gold thread and details made by hand with a brush and coloured ink. The lower-sleeves are made of yellow silk twill weave.

The decoration features nine five-clawed dragons (three on the front, plus one beneath the flap, three on the back and one on each shoulder) pursuing sacred pearls amid clouds, bats, shou character and symbolical devices. The gown bears the Twelve Imperial emblems ( the Rock, the Constellation, The sacrificial cups, the Flames, The Sun and Moon disc, The Water seeds, The dish of Millet, the Fu, The Axe Head). The sleeves, below the level of the yellow with its proper edging of li-shui and waves, have an extra band of black kesi, with dragons in profile chasing a pearl above mountains, wave and shallow li-shui, then a horse-shoe cuff with dragon full-face above waves surrounded by cloud-bands and bats.At the hem are the standing water ( lishui) and rocks appearing among waves.

The kesi is of a high quality (very tight) and the details are very finely made by hand. The quality of the weaving, the 12 Imperials emblems, the colour of the robe could indicate it have been worn my a woman of the Imperial family, possibly a high ranking concubine, princess or consort under the Jiaqing period (1796-1820), however, in absence of provenance, we do not have any certainty.
Dimensions
  • Length: 137.16cm
  • Width: 76.2cm
Style
Credit line
Purchased with Art Fund support
Object history
Registered File number 1947/374. From the collection of Bernard Vuilleumier.
Collection
Accession number
T.214-1948

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Record createdJune 25, 2009
Record URL
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