Robe and Belt
1850 - 1900 (made)
Artist/Maker | |
Place of origin |
Japanese robes are differentiated by their style of sleeve. Those with small openings at the wrist are known as kosode, while robes such as this, with a wide wrist opening that extends along the entire width of the sleeve, are called osode. This kind of large, loose sleeve allows for a layered look as the edges of the garments worn underneath are revealed at the sleeve opening of the upper garment. Voluminous osode, made of stiff woven fabrics, are worn at the imperial court. This garment is a kariginu or 'hunting cloth'. To allow for maximum ease of movement when drawing a bow on horseback, the double width sleeves are attached to the body of the garment only at the upper back and the cords threaded along the cuffs allow the sleeve to be gathered up. This example was made in the second half of the nineteenth century, by which time kariginu were no longer worn for hunting, but as part of the everyday costume of court nobles. It is a summer garment, the open structure of the gauze making it perfect for hot, humid weather. Worn over other robes, the transparency of the cloth would have created a shimmering effect.
Object details
Categories | |
Object type | |
Parts | This object consists of 2 parts.
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Materials and techniques | Gauze weave silk |
Brief description | Court robe and belt, browny green silk gauze, Japan, 1850-1900 |
Styles | |
Object history | Purchased. Registered File number 1983/2216. |
Summary | Japanese robes are differentiated by their style of sleeve. Those with small openings at the wrist are known as kosode, while robes such as this, with a wide wrist opening that extends along the entire width of the sleeve, are called osode. This kind of large, loose sleeve allows for a layered look as the edges of the garments worn underneath are revealed at the sleeve opening of the upper garment. Voluminous osode, made of stiff woven fabrics, are worn at the imperial court. This garment is a kariginu or 'hunting cloth'. To allow for maximum ease of movement when drawing a bow on horseback, the double width sleeves are attached to the body of the garment only at the upper back and the cords threaded along the cuffs allow the sleeve to be gathered up. This example was made in the second half of the nineteenth century, by which time kariginu were no longer worn for hunting, but as part of the everyday costume of court nobles. It is a summer garment, the open structure of the gauze making it perfect for hot, humid weather. Worn over other robes, the transparency of the cloth would have created a shimmering effect. |
Bibliographic reference | Crill, R., Wearden, J., & Wilson, V., Dress in Detail from Around the World, London: V&A Publications, 2002, pp.76-7
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Collection | |
Accession number | FE.157&A-1983 |
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Record created | June 25, 2009 |
Record URL |
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