Robe and Belt thumbnail 1
Not currently on display at the V&A

Robe and Belt

1850 - 1900 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Japanese robes are differentiated by their style of sleeve. Those with small openings at the wrist are known as kosode, while robes such as this, with a wide wrist opening that extends along the entire width of the sleeve, are called osode. This kind of large, loose sleeve allows for a layered look as the edges of the garments worn underneath are revealed at the sleeve opening of the upper garment. Voluminous osode, made of stiff woven fabrics, are worn at the imperial court. This garment is a kariginu or 'hunting cloth'. To allow for maximum ease of movement when drawing a bow on horseback, the double width sleeves are attached to the body of the garment only at the upper back and the cords threaded along the cuffs allow the sleeve to be gathered up. This example was made in the second half of the nineteenth century, by which time kariginu were no longer worn for hunting, but as part of the everyday costume of court nobles. It is a summer garment, the open structure of the gauze making it perfect for hot, humid weather. Worn over other robes, the transparency of the cloth would have created a shimmering effect.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 2 parts.

  • Robe
  • Belt
Materials and techniques
Gauze weave silk
Brief description
Court robe and belt, browny green silk gauze, Japan, 1850-1900
Styles
Object history
Purchased. Registered File number 1983/2216.
Summary
Japanese robes are differentiated by their style of sleeve. Those with small openings at the wrist are known as kosode, while robes such as this, with a wide wrist opening that extends along the entire width of the sleeve, are called osode. This kind of large, loose sleeve allows for a layered look as the edges of the garments worn underneath are revealed at the sleeve opening of the upper garment. Voluminous osode, made of stiff woven fabrics, are worn at the imperial court. This garment is a kariginu or 'hunting cloth'. To allow for maximum ease of movement when drawing a bow on horseback, the double width sleeves are attached to the body of the garment only at the upper back and the cords threaded along the cuffs allow the sleeve to be gathered up. This example was made in the second half of the nineteenth century, by which time kariginu were no longer worn for hunting, but as part of the everyday costume of court nobles. It is a summer garment, the open structure of the gauze making it perfect for hot, humid weather. Worn over other robes, the transparency of the cloth would have created a shimmering effect.
Bibliographic reference
Crill, R., Wearden, J., & Wilson, V., Dress in Detail from Around the World, London: V&A Publications, 2002, pp.76-7
Collection
Accession number
FE.157&A-1983

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Record createdJune 25, 2009
Record URL
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