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Not currently on display at the V&A

Kimono

1780-1820 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Around the shoulders of this kimono are embroidered characters relating to a poem in the 10th-century Kokinshu anthology. By choosing to have a literary theme on her kimono, the woman who wore this garment was demonstrating her taste and cultural discernment. Characters acted as a playful way of inviting people to literally ‘read’ something of her personality through her clothes.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Figured satin weave silk with polychrome embroidered and stencilled decoration
Brief description
Kimono, white figured silk satin with embroidered and resist-dyed decoration, Japan, 1780-1820
Physical description
Kosode (kimono with small sleeve openings) of white figured satin (rinzu) with a 1/4 weft-faced figure of key fret and flowers on a 4/1 warp-faced ground.
The all-over vertical design is of nandina branches and across the shoulders back and front are characters.
Both the nandina and the characters are depicted in orange-red, green and gold embroidery, black pigment, and in red-brown stencilling to imitate tie-dye (kata kanoko).
The sleeves of the garment have an inserted section at the bottom back and consequently the design does not match across this extra horizontal seam.
The garment is lined with plain weave thin silk, probably a later renewal.
Dimensions
  • Repeat length: 18cm
  • Repeat width: 9in
  • Repeat length: 46cm
  • Repeat width: 22.8cm
  • Collar to hem length: 62.5in
  • Collar to hem length: 158cm
  • Including sleeves width: 66in
  • Including sleeves width: 167.5cm
  • Under arms width: 30in
  • Under arms width: 76.2cm
  • Silk width: 18.5in
  • Silk width: 47cm
Style
Marks and inscriptions
( Beginning on the back sleeve with the character kimi, the poem continues across the back and onto the front. The dealer from whom the Museum purchased this kosode believes it is a Heian period (794-1185) poem which was adopted as the national anthem during the Meiji era (1868-1912). )
Gallery label
Around the shoulders of this kimono are embroidered characters relating to a poem in the 10th-century Kokinshu anthology. By choosing to have a literary theme on her kimono, the woman who wore this garment was demonstrating her taste and cultural discernment. Characters acted as a playful way of inviting people to literally ‘read’ something of her personality through her clothes.(29/07/2020)
Object history
Purchased. Registered File number 1985/311.
Subject depicted
Summary
Around the shoulders of this kimono are embroidered characters relating to a poem in the 10th-century Kokinshu anthology. By choosing to have a literary theme on her kimono, the woman who wore this garment was demonstrating her taste and cultural discernment. Characters acted as a playful way of inviting people to literally ‘read’ something of her personality through her clothes.
Bibliographic references
  • Rout, Josephine, Japanese Dress in Detail, London: Thames & Hudson, 2020
  • Miller, Lesley Ellis, and Ana Cabrera Lafuente, with Claire Allen-Johnstone, eds. Silk: Fibre, Fabric and Fashion. London: Thames & Hudson Ltd in association with the Victoria and Albert Museum, 2021. ISBN 978-0-500-48065-6. This object features in the publication Silk: Fibre, Fabric and Fashion (2021)
Collection
Accession number
FE.19-1986

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Record createdJune 25, 2009
Record URL
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