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Textile fragment

Textile fragment

  • Place of origin:

    Japan (Yedo, made)

  • Date:

    19th century (made)

  • Materials and Techniques:

    woven silk and metallic paper strips

  • Museum number:

    FEC.LOST 98/15/4.22

  • Gallery location:

    In Storage

A silk, woven, patterned lampas. A ground of irregular weave where 2, double, lines of 6 end satin alternate with 2, double, lines of complicated twill (3.1.1.1). The pattern is created using lance effects of the supplementary coloured wefts. The design is of tree branches, birds (some wearing hats, some holding small purse like motifs) above a fence with foliage beneath it. The pattern is bound on the front by the binding warp in a plain weave over ½ of the [double] warp ends. The fragment has the base edge and one side of selvedge. On the reverse Japanese characters are written onto a strip of the fabric using pink paint.

Warp
Ratio 2 (doubles):1
1) ground
silk, x-ply, S twist, double
yellow
app. 92 ends cm
2) binding
silk, 1 ply, no evidence of twist
cream

Weft
Ratio 1:1 (all supplementary)
1) ground
silk, x-ply, sight S twist, double
yellow
app. 48 picks cm
2) supplementary lance
a) silk, x-ply, no evidence of twist
light blue, white
b) silk, x-ply, no evidence of twist, double and Z twisted together, some slub, maroon
c) gilded paper - metallic (gold alloy?) paper strips (lined one side only)

Physical description

A silk, woven, patterned lampas. A ground of irregular weave where 2, double, lines of 6 end satin alternate with 2, double, lines of complicated twill (3.1.1.1). The pattern is created using lance effects of the supplementary coloured wefts. The design is of tree branches, birds (some wearing hats, some holding small purse like motifs) above a fence with foliage beneath it. The pattern is bound on the front by the binding warp in a plain weave over ½ of the [double] warp ends. The fragment has the base edge and one side of selvedge. On the reverse Japanese characters are written onto a strip of the fabric using pink paint.

Warp
Ratio 2 (doubles):1
1) ground
silk, x-ply, S twist, double
yellow
app. 92 ends cm
2) binding
silk, 1 ply, no evidence of twist
cream

Weft
Ratio 1:1 (all supplementary)
1) ground
silk, x-ply, sight S twist, double
yellow
app. 48 picks cm
2) supplementary lance
a) silk, x-ply, no evidence of twist
light blue, white
b) silk, x-ply, no evidence of twist, double and Z twisted together, some slub, maroon
c) gilded paper - metallic (gold alloy?) paper strips (lined one side only)

Place of Origin

Japan (Yedo, made)

Date

19th century (made)

Materials and Techniques

woven silk and metallic paper strips

Marks and inscriptions

There are Japanese characters written on the reverse.
Response from V&A staff: "... tussled with this, but to no effect. The last two characters look like 'the seventh year of', but we can't find a reign date, Chinese, Japanese or Korean, that match anything vaguely resembling the first two characters."

Dimensions

Height: 235 mm, Width: 130 mm

Descriptive line

Fragment of woven, patterned silk. Lampas. Japan, 19th century.

Materials

Silk; Paper; Metal

Techniques

Weaving; Dyeing

Categories

Textiles

Collection

East Asia Collection

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