Not currently on display at the V&A

Textile Fragment

19th century (made)
Place of origin

A silk woven, patterned lampas. Ground of 2:1 twill, Z direction. The pattern is creating using lance effect of the supplementary wefts. The design is floral with leaves floating over the fabric. The pattern is bound on the front by the binding warp in a 1:2 twill in the S direction over 1/3 of the [double] warp ends.The fragment has selvedge on one side.

Warp
1) ground
silk, x-ply, slight S, double [with occasional singles?]
aqua
app. 66 (double) ends cm
2) binding
silk, x- ply, STA
olive green
Ratio 3:1

Weft
Ratio 1:1:1
1) ground
silk, x-ply, STA, thick
olive green
app. 36 picks cm
2) supplementary lance
a) silk, x-ply, STA
cream/gold
b) silk, x-ply, S twist, thick
navy blue



Object details

Category
Object type
Materials and techniques
Woven silk
Brief description
Fragment of woven, patterned silk. Lampas. Japan 19th century.
Physical description
A silk woven, patterned lampas. Ground of 2:1 twill, Z direction. The pattern is creating using lance effect of the supplementary wefts. The design is floral with leaves floating over the fabric. The pattern is bound on the front by the binding warp in a 1:2 twill in the Z direction over 1/3 of the [double] warp ends. The fragment has selvedge on one side.

Warp
1) ground
silk, x-ply, slight S, double [with occasional singles?]
aqua
app. 66 (double) ends cm
2) binding
silk, x- ply, STA
olive green
Ratio 3:1

Weft
Ratio 1:1:1
1) ground
silk, x-ply, STA, thick
olive green
app. 36 picks cm
2) supplementary lance
a) silk, x-ply, STA
cream/gold
b) silk, x-ply, S twist, thick
navy blue
Dimensions
  • Height: (mm)
  • Width: (mm)
Gallery label
Figured silk. Yedo, Japan: 19th century. Three shuttles - gold, brown and olive green - have been used to weave this pattern, on an olive green warp.
Summary
A silk woven, patterned lampas. Ground of 2:1 twill, Z direction. The pattern is creating using lance effect of the supplementary wefts. The design is floral with leaves floating over the fabric. The pattern is bound on the front by the binding warp in a 1:2 twill in the S direction over 1/3 of the [double] warp ends.The fragment has selvedge on one side.

Warp
1) ground
silk, x-ply, slight S, double [with occasional singles?]
aqua
app. 66 (double) ends cm
2) binding
silk, x- ply, STA
olive green
Ratio 3:1

Weft
Ratio 1:1:1
1) ground
silk, x-ply, STA, thick
olive green
app. 36 picks cm
2) supplementary lance
a) silk, x-ply, STA
cream/gold
b) silk, x-ply, S twist, thick
navy blue

Collection
Accession number
FEC.LOST 98/15/4.25

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Record createdJune 25, 2009
Record URL
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