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Not currently on display at the V&A

Petticoat

ca. 1750 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Petticoat (visible underskirt of a woman's 'open robe' costume) of cotton, mordant-dyed and resist-dyed (chintz). Full skirt, pleated onto a linen waistband, and lined with stout linen. The white ground chintz, which retains some of its original surface glaze, is patterned as follows: a deep border runs along the bottom, between narrow guard borders in red with a 'fishtail' pattern made up of leafy-and-stem forms. The main border pattern consists of a large stylised vase of flowers motifs, set on its side, and repeated at wide intervals. Each vase of flowers is linked by a double garland of flowers, stemming from either side of the bouquet, and trailing onto the next vase group, so as to form a loose trellis. Along the bottom hem, just inside the outer guard border is a serpentine garland with flowers in the intervals.

The main field pattern of the petticoat is of similar flower vases and garlands, but placed the right way up, in other words, at right-angles to the border patterns. In addition to this another main pattern is introduced above the row of vases, and forming a staggered row with it, and linked to the vases of flowers by the garlanded trellis, is a row of large symmetrical repeated flower motifs; each supported and linked by an arch-shaped stem. In additional, isolated flower sprays are dotted above the ground, e.g. tulips and roses.

Colours: flowers mainly in shades of red and violet, with yellow and white; foliage green (overpainted yellow on blue). Vases and some other details in blue.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Cotton, mordant-dyed and resist-dyed
Brief description
Woman's petticoat, cotton, mordant-dyed and resist-dyed, Coromandel Coast, India, ca. 1750
Physical description
Petticoat (visible underskirt of a woman's 'open robe' costume) of cotton, mordant-dyed and resist-dyed (chintz). Full skirt, pleated onto a linen waistband, and lined with stout linen. The white ground chintz, which retains some of its original surface glaze, is patterned as follows: a deep border runs along the bottom, between narrow guard borders in red with a 'fishtail' pattern made up of leafy-and-stem forms. The main border pattern consists of a large stylised vase of flowers motifs, set on its side, and repeated at wide intervals. Each vase of flowers is linked by a double garland of flowers, stemming from either side of the bouquet, and trailing onto the next vase group, so as to form a loose trellis. Along the bottom hem, just inside the outer guard border is a serpentine garland with flowers in the intervals.

The main field pattern of the petticoat is of similar flower vases and garlands, but placed the right way up, in other words, at right-angles to the border patterns. In addition to this another main pattern is introduced above the row of vases, and forming a staggered row with it, and linked to the vases of flowers by the garlanded trellis, is a row of large symmetrical repeated flower motifs; each supported and linked by an arch-shaped stem. In additional, isolated flower sprays are dotted above the ground, e.g. tulips and roses.

Colours: flowers mainly in shades of red and violet, with yellow and white; foliage green (overpainted yellow on blue). Vases and some other details in blue.
Dimensions
  • Height: 110cm
  • Width: 157cm
Object history
Purchased. Registered File number 1976/1287.
Subjects depicted
Bibliographic reference
Crill, Rosemary, Chintz: Indian Textiles for the West, London, 2008. Crill, Rosemary. Chintz : Indian textiles for the West London: V&A Publishing, 2008, Cat. No. 87, p. 31, illus. p. 139.
Collection
Accession number
IS.15-1976

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Record createdJune 25, 2009
Record URL
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