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Petticoat

  • Place of origin:

    Coromandel Coast (made)

  • Date:

    ca. 1750 (made)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Unknown

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Cotton, mordant-dyed and resist-dyed

  • Museum number:

    IS.15-1976

  • Gallery location:

    In Storage

Physical description

Petticoat (visible underskirt of a woman's 'open robe' costume) of cotton, mordant-dyed and resist-dyed (chintz). Full skirt, pleated onto a linen waistband, and lined with stout linen. The white ground chintz, which retains some of its original surface glaze, is patterned as follows: a deep border runs along the bottom, between narrow guard borders in red with a 'fishtail' pattern made up of leafy-and-stem forms. The main border pattern consists of a large stylised vase of flowers motifs, set on its side, and repeated at wide intervals. Each vase of flowers is linked by a double garland of flowers, stemming from either side of the bouquet, and trailing onto the next vase group, so as to form a loose trellis. Along the bottom hem, just inside the outer guard border is a serpentine garland with flowers in the intervals.

The main field pattern of the petticoat is of similar flower vases and garlands, but placed the right way up, in other words, at right-angles to the border patterns. In addition to this another main pattern is introduced above the row of vases, and forming a staggered row with it, and linked to the vases of flowers by the garlanded trellis, is a row of large symmetrical repeated flower motifs; each supported and linked by an arch-shaped stem. In additional, isolated flower sprays are dotted above the ground, e.g. tulips and roses.

Colours: flowers mainly in shades of red and violet, with yellow and white; foliage green (overpainted yellow on blue). Vases and some other details in blue.

Place of Origin

Coromandel Coast (made)

Date

ca. 1750 (made)

Artist/maker

Unknown

Materials and Techniques

Cotton, mordant-dyed and resist-dyed

Dimensions

Height: 110 cm, Width: 157 cm

Object history note

Purchased. Registered File number 1976/1287.

Descriptive line

Woman's petticoat, cotton, mordant-dyed and resist-dyed, Coromandel Coast, India, ca. 1750

Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)

Crill, Rosemary. Chintz : Indian textiles for the West London: V&A Publishing, 2008, Cat. No. 87, p. 31, illus. p. 139.
Crill, Rosemary, Chintz: Indian Textiles for the West, London, 2008.

Materials

Cotton (textile)

Techniques

Woven; Painting (image-making); Resist dyeing

Subjects depicted

Floral patterns; Vases

Categories

Textiles; Women's clothes

Collection

South & South East Asia Collection

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