Not currently on display at the V&A

Girdle

18th century (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Girdle (patka) of unbleached or faded cotton, embroidered with coloured floss silks and flattened silver wire. The patka is of coarse, loosely-woven cotton with a slightly harsh or stiff surface which seems to indicate the presence of a dressing. The field is plain, with decorated pallau, each consisting of a single row of seven stylised flowering plants, probably representing poppies. The embroidery is darning stitch. The flower-heads are worked in orange, outlined and partitioned by flattened silver wire. The stems and foliage are blue-green, with a central "vein" of yellow on each leaf. The entire background of the pallav sections, between the flowering plants, is filled with a diaper of "droplets" like large single inverted commas, embroidered in flattened silver wire. Three guard borders separate the pallau from the filed. They consist of a row of stylised poppy heads, alternately upright and inverted. The individual heads are enclosed in rectangular compartments outlined in blue green.. Enclosing this enclosure above and below is a narrow embroidered line in which blue-green and yellow alternate. An outer border of the same design runs round the edge of the shawl. Places where the embroidery has frayed show that the pattern was stamped on the fabric in a pinkish pigment.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Woven cotton embroidered with floss silks and flattened silver wire
Brief description
Girdle (patka), woven cotton embroidered with floss silks and flattened silver wire, North India, 18th century
Physical description
Girdle (patka) of unbleached or faded cotton, embroidered with coloured floss silks and flattened silver wire. The patka is of coarse, loosely-woven cotton with a slightly harsh or stiff surface which seems to indicate the presence of a dressing. The field is plain, with decorated pallau, each consisting of a single row of seven stylised flowering plants, probably representing poppies. The embroidery is darning stitch. The flower-heads are worked in orange, outlined and partitioned by flattened silver wire. The stems and foliage are blue-green, with a central "vein" of yellow on each leaf. The entire background of the pallav sections, between the flowering plants, is filled with a diaper of "droplets" like large single inverted commas, embroidered in flattened silver wire. Three guard borders separate the pallau from the filed. They consist of a row of stylised poppy heads, alternately upright and inverted. The individual heads are enclosed in rectangular compartments outlined in blue green.. Enclosing this enclosure above and below is a narrow embroidered line in which blue-green and yellow alternate. An outer border of the same design runs round the edge of the shawl. Places where the embroidery has frayed show that the pattern was stamped on the fabric in a pinkish pigment.
Dimensions
  • Length: 190cm
  • Max. width: 66.5cm
Object history
Purchased. Registered File number 1977/1284.
Subjects depicted
Collection
Accession number
IS.68-1977

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Record createdJune 25, 2009
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