Not currently on display at the V&A

Der Rosenkavalier

Theatre Costume
1975 (designed)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Richard Strauss's opera Der Rosenkavalier, in style and manners, is firmly set in the 18th century and does not allow of radical reinterpretation. Many designers base their concepts on the original 1911 production, designed by Alfred Roller, although David Walker, in designing the opera for English National Opera in 1975, found Roller's work a little vulgar, while describing his own work as 'a bit like Harrod's best.' There was a handsome over- sumptuousness about Walker's costumes that married well with the sheer welter of words and notes that characterise the opera.

On the dummy on which this costume for Sophie was made, Walker pinned a postcard of his inspiration for the dress - Boucher's painting of the Marquise de Pompadour in the Wallace Collection. Although the white and silver fabric of Sophie's dress is ornately encrusted down the front with frills and flower and foliage trims, they never threaten to overpower the basic innocence and simplicity of the character.


Object details

Categories
Object type
TitleDer Rosenkavalier (generic title)
Materials and techniques
Synthetic chiffon, lace, net, gold mesh, braid, gold paint
Brief description
18th century style dress designed by David Walker for Sophie in Richard Strauss's opera Der Rosenkavalier, English National Opera, 1975
Physical description
White 18th century style dress overlaid with silver lace and richly decorated with white lace and artificial flowers
Dimensions
  • Dress, collar to hem length: 182cm
  • Dress, width width: 63cm
  • Packed weight of object weight: 4.3kg
Gallery label
Gallery rotation, 2022 COSTUMES FOR SOPHIE AND OCTAVIAN IN DER ROSENKAVALIER 1975 David Walker designed these costumes for a 1975 revival of Richard Strauss’s celebrated comic opera Der Rosenkavalier. Sophie and Octavian fall in love and devise a comic plot to free Sophie from her engagement to a brutish Baron. Octavian is a ‘breeches role’: a role of a young man written for a female (mezzo-) soprano. Some female singers have performed both Sophie and Octavian during their careers. Designed by David Walker Synthetic chiffon, brocade, furnishing fabric, lace, net, gold mesh, braid, sequins and gold paint Given by English National Opera Museum nos. S.261:1, 2-1999, S.263-1999(07/03/2022)
Credit line
Given by English National Opera
Object history
The costume was designed by David Walker for Sophie in Richard Strauss's opera Der Rosenkavalier, English National Opera, 1975.

Historical significance: A fine example of theatre costume making from the 1970s, showing how period costume can be at once a reflection of historical understand and theatrical effectiveness, so that it is recognisable as period costume but, in its cut and use of materials, obvious as a creation of its time.
Summary
Richard Strauss's opera Der Rosenkavalier, in style and manners, is firmly set in the 18th century and does not allow of radical reinterpretation. Many designers base their concepts on the original 1911 production, designed by Alfred Roller, although David Walker, in designing the opera for English National Opera in 1975, found Roller's work a little vulgar, while describing his own work as 'a bit like Harrod's best.' There was a handsome over- sumptuousness about Walker's costumes that married well with the sheer welter of words and notes that characterise the opera.

On the dummy on which this costume for Sophie was made, Walker pinned a postcard of his inspiration for the dress - Boucher's painting of the Marquise de Pompadour in the Wallace Collection. Although the white and silver fabric of Sophie's dress is ornately encrusted down the front with frills and flower and foliage trims, they never threaten to overpower the basic innocence and simplicity of the character.
Collection
Accession number
S.263-1999

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Record createdSeptember 1, 2000
Record URL
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