Theatre Costume
1975 (made)
Artist/Maker |
Richard Strauss's opera Der Rosenkavalier, in style and manners, is firmly set in the 18th century and does not allow of radical reinterpretation. Many designers base their concepts on the original 1911 production, designed by Alfred Roller, although David Walker, in designing the opera for English National Opera in 1975, found Roller's work a little vulgar, while describing his own work as 'a bit like Harrod's best.' There was a handsome over- sumptuousness about Walker's costumes that married well with the sheer welter of words and notes that characterise the opera.
The role of Octavian was written not for a tenor, but for a soprano. The costume therefore in its strong lines and weight is designed to help the singer suggest a young man. In colouring and style it relates to the costume worn by Sophie, the girl with whom Octavian falls in love even though he is acting as emissary from Sophie's older admirer, Baron Ochs; the costumes therefore almost hint that there is a fundamental understanding between the young couple even before they themselves realise they are in love.
The role of Octavian was written not for a tenor, but for a soprano. The costume therefore in its strong lines and weight is designed to help the singer suggest a young man. In colouring and style it relates to the costume worn by Sophie, the girl with whom Octavian falls in love even though he is acting as emissary from Sophie's older admirer, Baron Ochs; the costumes therefore almost hint that there is a fundamental understanding between the young couple even before they themselves realise they are in love.
Object details
Categories | |
Object type | |
Materials and techniques | Brocade with gold, copper and silver lace, braid and sequins |
Brief description | 18th century style coat of off-white furnishing brocade patterned with a white and gold flower and leaf design, the turned back cuffs and fronts richly decorated with gold, copper and silver lace, lace and braid rosettes and sequins, designed by David Walker for Octavian in Richard Strauss's opera Der Rosenkavalier, English National Opera, 1975 |
Physical description | 18th century style coat of off-white furnishing brocade patterned with a white and gold flower and leaf design, the turned back cuffs and fronts richly decorated with gold, copper and silver lace, lace and braid rosettes and sequins |
Dimensions |
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Gallery label | Gallery rotation, 2022
COSTUMES FOR SOPHIE AND OCTAVIAN IN DER ROSENKAVALIER
1975
David Walker designed these costumes for a 1975 revival of Richard Strauss’s celebrated comic opera Der Rosenkavalier. Sophie and Octavian fall in love and devise a comic plot to free Sophie from her engagement to a brutish Baron. Octavian is a ‘breeches role’: a role of a young man written for a female (mezzo-) soprano. Some female singers have performed both Sophie and Octavian during their careers.
Designed by David Walker
Synthetic chiffon, brocade, furnishing fabric, lace, net, gold mesh, braid, sequins and gold paint
Given by English National Opera
Museum nos. S.261:1, 2-1999, S.263-1999(07/03/2022) |
Credit line | Given by English National Opera |
Object history | The costume was designed by David Walker for Octavian in Richard Strauss's opera Der Rosenkavalier, English National Opera, 1975. Historical significance: A fine example of theatre costume making from the 1970s, showing how period costume can be at once a reflection of historical understand and theatrical effectiveness, so that it is recognisable as period costume but, in its cut and use of materials, obvious as a creation of its time. |
Summary | Richard Strauss's opera Der Rosenkavalier, in style and manners, is firmly set in the 18th century and does not allow of radical reinterpretation. Many designers base their concepts on the original 1911 production, designed by Alfred Roller, although David Walker, in designing the opera for English National Opera in 1975, found Roller's work a little vulgar, while describing his own work as 'a bit like Harrod's best.' There was a handsome over- sumptuousness about Walker's costumes that married well with the sheer welter of words and notes that characterise the opera. The role of Octavian was written not for a tenor, but for a soprano. The costume therefore in its strong lines and weight is designed to help the singer suggest a young man. In colouring and style it relates to the costume worn by Sophie, the girl with whom Octavian falls in love even though he is acting as emissary from Sophie's older admirer, Baron Ochs; the costumes therefore almost hint that there is a fundamental understanding between the young couple even before they themselves realise they are in love. |
Collection | |
Accession number | S.261:1-1999 |
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Record created | September 1, 2000 |
Record URL |
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