Girdle thumbnail 1
Girdle thumbnail 2
Not currently on display at the V&A

Girdle

18th century (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Girdle (patka) of unbleached or yellowed muslin, embroidered with coloured floss silks, flattened silver wire, gold wire and fragments of beetles' wings.

The patka is of a rather loosely woven, cheesecloth-type muslin, has a plain field, with embroidered end and side borders mainly in darning. The main (end) borders or pallau are patterned with a repeating stylised flower sprig, in five staggered rows. Each sprig consists of three petals in flattened silver wire (foil), with a fragment of iridescent beetle's wing in the centre. The stalks of twin leaves are in light green silk, with a bold dash or stripe of dark blue-green silk down the middle of each leaf. At the top of each sprig, appearing to grow from the centermost silver petal, is a "bud" of bright orange, on a tiny stem of dark blue-green. Immediately above the pallav, and separating it from the plain field area, are three identical narrow guard borders, embroidered with a continuous scrolled leaf and flower-head motif, with a leaf, a bud and a flower-head appearing alternately. The leaves are in yellow and orange, with an upper outline of dark blue-green. The buds are in crimson, white and orange silk, and the flowerheads the same with a dark blue centre. The guard borders are outlined in dark blue silk, couched with a flattened gold wire (foil) which also largely covers the background of the borders. All the embroidered motifs are outlined with fine twisted gold on a silk core (not at all like the flattened wire in other parts of the embroidery).


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Muslin embroidered with floss silks, metal wire and beetles' wings
Brief description
Girdle (patka), muslin embroidered with floss silks, metal wire and beetles' wings, probably Western India, 18th century
Physical description
Girdle (patka) of unbleached or yellowed muslin, embroidered with coloured floss silks, flattened silver wire, gold wire and fragments of beetles' wings.

The patka is of a rather loosely woven, cheesecloth-type muslin, has a plain field, with embroidered end and side borders mainly in darning. The main (end) borders or pallau are patterned with a repeating stylised flower sprig, in five staggered rows. Each sprig consists of three petals in flattened silver wire (foil), with a fragment of iridescent beetle's wing in the centre. The stalks of twin leaves are in light green silk, with a bold dash or stripe of dark blue-green silk down the middle of each leaf. At the top of each sprig, appearing to grow from the centermost silver petal, is a "bud" of bright orange, on a tiny stem of dark blue-green. Immediately above the pallav, and separating it from the plain field area, are three identical narrow guard borders, embroidered with a continuous scrolled leaf and flower-head motif, with a leaf, a bud and a flower-head appearing alternately. The leaves are in yellow and orange, with an upper outline of dark blue-green. The buds are in crimson, white and orange silk, and the flowerheads the same with a dark blue centre. The guard borders are outlined in dark blue silk, couched with a flattened gold wire (foil) which also largely covers the background of the borders. All the embroidered motifs are outlined with fine twisted gold on a silk core (not at all like the flattened wire in other parts of the embroidery).
Dimensions
  • Length: 393cm
  • Width: 67cm
Object history
Purchased. Registered File number 1977/1284.
Subject depicted
Collection
Accession number
IS.66-1977

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Record createdJune 25, 2009
Record URL
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