Girdle
18th century (made)
Artist/Maker | |
Place of origin |
Girdle (patka) of unbleached or yellowed muslin, embroidered with coloured floss silks, flattened silver wire, gold wire and fragments of beetles' wings.
The patka is of a rather loosely woven, cheesecloth-type muslin, has a plain field, with embroidered end and side borders mainly in darning. The main (end) borders or pallau are patterned with a repeating stylised flower sprig, in five staggered rows. Each sprig consists of three petals in flattened silver wire (foil), with a fragment of iridescent beetle's wing in the centre. The stalks of twin leaves are in light green silk, with a bold dash or stripe of dark blue-green silk down the middle of each leaf. At the top of each sprig, appearing to grow from the centermost silver petal, is a "bud" of bright orange, on a tiny stem of dark blue-green. Immediately above the pallav, and separating it from the plain field area, are three identical narrow guard borders, embroidered with a continuous scrolled leaf and flower-head motif, with a leaf, a bud and a flower-head appearing alternately. The leaves are in yellow and orange, with an upper outline of dark blue-green. The buds are in crimson, white and orange silk, and the flowerheads the same with a dark blue centre. The guard borders are outlined in dark blue silk, couched with a flattened gold wire (foil) which also largely covers the background of the borders. All the embroidered motifs are outlined with fine twisted gold on a silk core (not at all like the flattened wire in other parts of the embroidery).
The patka is of a rather loosely woven, cheesecloth-type muslin, has a plain field, with embroidered end and side borders mainly in darning. The main (end) borders or pallau are patterned with a repeating stylised flower sprig, in five staggered rows. Each sprig consists of three petals in flattened silver wire (foil), with a fragment of iridescent beetle's wing in the centre. The stalks of twin leaves are in light green silk, with a bold dash or stripe of dark blue-green silk down the middle of each leaf. At the top of each sprig, appearing to grow from the centermost silver petal, is a "bud" of bright orange, on a tiny stem of dark blue-green. Immediately above the pallav, and separating it from the plain field area, are three identical narrow guard borders, embroidered with a continuous scrolled leaf and flower-head motif, with a leaf, a bud and a flower-head appearing alternately. The leaves are in yellow and orange, with an upper outline of dark blue-green. The buds are in crimson, white and orange silk, and the flowerheads the same with a dark blue centre. The guard borders are outlined in dark blue silk, couched with a flattened gold wire (foil) which also largely covers the background of the borders. All the embroidered motifs are outlined with fine twisted gold on a silk core (not at all like the flattened wire in other parts of the embroidery).
Object details
Categories | |
Object type | |
Materials and techniques | Muslin embroidered with floss silks, metal wire and beetles' wings |
Brief description | Girdle (patka), muslin embroidered with floss silks, metal wire and beetles' wings, probably Western India, 18th century |
Physical description | Girdle (patka) of unbleached or yellowed muslin, embroidered with coloured floss silks, flattened silver wire, gold wire and fragments of beetles' wings. The patka is of a rather loosely woven, cheesecloth-type muslin, has a plain field, with embroidered end and side borders mainly in darning. The main (end) borders or pallau are patterned with a repeating stylised flower sprig, in five staggered rows. Each sprig consists of three petals in flattened silver wire (foil), with a fragment of iridescent beetle's wing in the centre. The stalks of twin leaves are in light green silk, with a bold dash or stripe of dark blue-green silk down the middle of each leaf. At the top of each sprig, appearing to grow from the centermost silver petal, is a "bud" of bright orange, on a tiny stem of dark blue-green. Immediately above the pallav, and separating it from the plain field area, are three identical narrow guard borders, embroidered with a continuous scrolled leaf and flower-head motif, with a leaf, a bud and a flower-head appearing alternately. The leaves are in yellow and orange, with an upper outline of dark blue-green. The buds are in crimson, white and orange silk, and the flowerheads the same with a dark blue centre. The guard borders are outlined in dark blue silk, couched with a flattened gold wire (foil) which also largely covers the background of the borders. All the embroidered motifs are outlined with fine twisted gold on a silk core (not at all like the flattened wire in other parts of the embroidery). |
Dimensions |
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Object history | Purchased. Registered File number 1977/1284. |
Subject depicted | |
Collection | |
Accession number | IS.66-1977 |
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Record created | June 25, 2009 |
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