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Not currently on display at the V&A

Scarf

ca. 1850 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This angochha (shoulder cloth) was made in Jaipur, where block-printing has long been a major industry. This cloth uses only red and black dyes, which would each need separate mordants to fix them – alum for red and iron for black. The mordants would be applied with blocks and the cloth would then be dyed. The cloth also bears a black octroi or tax collection stamp. Printed cloths were subject to levies until Indian Independence in 1947.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Woven cotton, block printed
Brief description
Textile, scarf or head cover, cotton block-printed in red and black, probably Jaipur, ca. 1850
Physical description
Fine white cotton length, the field block-printed with vertical black stripes with a white scrolling design. Ends are block-printed with flower motifs, bordered by a red scrolling design. Complete piece.
Dimensions
  • Length: 107.5cm
  • Width: 54cm
Marks and inscriptions
'3.6x1.9/DEPT OF SCIENCE AND ART MUSEUM No.812/1852' (small paper label, attached to object)
Object history
Acquired from the Great Exhibition of 1851.
Historical context
Intended for use as a garment, as clothing.
Association
Summary
This angochha (shoulder cloth) was made in Jaipur, where block-printing has long been a major industry. This cloth uses only red and black dyes, which would each need separate mordants to fix them – alum for red and iron for black. The mordants would be applied with blocks and the cloth would then be dyed. The cloth also bears a black octroi or tax collection stamp. Printed cloths were subject to levies until Indian Independence in 1947.
Bibliographic reference
Bryant, Julius and Weber, Susan; John Lockwood Kipling: Arts and Crafts in the Punjab and London Newhaven: Yale University Press, 2017 p. 6, fig. 1.10, cat. 13
Collection
Accession number
812-1852

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Record createdJune 25, 2009
Record URL
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