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Chintz Hanging

first quarter 18th century (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Object Type
This fragment is from a set of bed hangings. It is made of chintz, a generic term for the hand-painted cotton fabrics that were imported in large quantities into Britain and The Netherlands during the 17th and 18th centuries.

Design & Designing
The imaginary, hybrid floral designs characteristic of chintz fabrics of the early 18th century are the product of a complex interaction of trade between India, Europe and East Asia. The demands of different markets for 'exotic' goods led to combinations of elements from English embroidery, Islamic floral designs and Chinese ceramics, among other things, all interpreted by the Indian cotton painter. Little distinction was originally made between Indian and Chinese designs, and contemporary writers often refer to Indian furnishings as Chinese, and vice versa.

Materials & Making
Chintz is a term for a series of complex techniques involving the use of mordants - salts used for fixing the dye in the fabric - and resists - inpermeable substances such as wax, that prevent the fabric from being dyed in certain area according to the design. These techniques are particularly associated with coastal south-east India (the so-called 'Coromandel Coast') because of the particularly favourable combination of chemicals in the local soil, water and dye- plants.



Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 12 parts.

  • Coverlet
  • Coverlet
  • Coverlet
  • Coverlet
  • Coverlet
  • Coverlet
  • Coverlet
  • Coverlet
  • Coverlet
  • Coverlet
  • Coverlet
  • Coverlet
Materials and techniques
Painted and dyed cotton chintz, and sewn with gimp braid
Brief description
Twelve fragments of hangings for a bed in painted and dyed cotton chintz, Coromandel Coast, first quarter of 18th century
Physical description
Twelve fragments of hangings for a bed in painted and dyed cotton chintz. With black and white gimp braid sewn over some of the seams.

The main pattern, before it was unstitched, consisted of hills from which rises a tree bearing a variety of large flowers and leaves, and two vases of smaller flowers. The upper part of the tree was repeated reversed, and in the upper half of the coverlet. The surface enriched by delicate floral motives. The ground in white. The applied bottom border had a design of winged boys amid trees and buildings, and a winding stream, in shades of red and blue with touches of white.
Gallery label
British Galleries: LEEK EMBROIDERY And its Indian source 'Leek embroidery' was a technique of embroidering over ready-printed panels manufactured at Leek in Staffordshire. Skilled embroiderers with a good sense of design could create highly original embroideries that were far from straight copies of the printed ground. This design draws on a variety of styles but its chief models must have been hand-drawn and dyed chintzes made in southern India a century earlier, like the one shown here.
Credit line
Purchased from M. Sylvaine[?] Gleiges, 24 Avenue Gambetta Courbevoie, Seine, France
Object history
Museum numbers IM.49-1919 to IM.56-1919 purchased for £20.19s (840 francs).

Purchased from M. Sylvaine[?] Gleiges, 24 Avenue Gambetta Courbevoie, Seine, France. This acquisition information reflects that found in the Museum records (Asia Department registers and/or Central Inventory) as part of a 2023 provenance research project.

R.P. 1919-5353 and R.P. 1919-4459
Summary
Object Type
This fragment is from a set of bed hangings. It is made of chintz, a generic term for the hand-painted cotton fabrics that were imported in large quantities into Britain and The Netherlands during the 17th and 18th centuries.

Design & Designing
The imaginary, hybrid floral designs characteristic of chintz fabrics of the early 18th century are the product of a complex interaction of trade between India, Europe and East Asia. The demands of different markets for 'exotic' goods led to combinations of elements from English embroidery, Islamic floral designs and Chinese ceramics, among other things, all interpreted by the Indian cotton painter. Little distinction was originally made between Indian and Chinese designs, and contemporary writers often refer to Indian furnishings as Chinese, and vice versa.

Materials & Making
Chintz is a term for a series of complex techniques involving the use of mordants - salts used for fixing the dye in the fabric - and resists - inpermeable substances such as wax, that prevent the fabric from being dyed in certain area according to the design. These techniques are particularly associated with coastal south-east India (the so-called 'Coromandel Coast') because of the particularly favourable combination of chemicals in the local soil, water and dye- plants.

Bibliographic references
  • Crill, Rosemary, Chintz: Indian Textiles for the West, London, 2008. Plate 5, p. 6; Plate 5, p. 36 ; Plate 4. p. 36 (50a)
  • Irwin, John and Katherine Brett, Origins of Chintz, London, 1970. With a catalogue of Indo-European cotton-paintings in the Victoria & Albert Museum, London, and the Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto. ISBN 112900534. pp.71-72, cat. no. 14, pl. 12, cl. pl.2
Collection
Accession number
IM.50 to E, G, I&J, L, N&O-1919

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Record createdJune 25, 2009
Record URL
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