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Necklace

1800-1870 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Choker necklaces were worn with traditional costume throughout the alpine regions of south Germany, Austria and Switzerland. They were originally used to hide the signs of goitre, a disfiguring disease caused by lack of iodine, which was endemic in the high Alps.

In Switzerland these necklaces, called Halsbätti, were usually made of loose chains of silver links, or beads imitating garnet or coral. The designs varied from valley to valley, but most had a three-part clasp, like this one, of silver-gilt filigree set with garnets. They were worn over a thin scarf of black silk. The name Halsbätti means a rosary worn on the neck, because the beads resembled rosary beads. It never had any religious meaning.

This necklace was described as German when it was acquired in 1872, but it is more characteristic of Swiss traditional jewellery. The filigree clasps worn with German and Austrian necklaces were quite different in shape. Although the clasp and the garnet-coloured beads are probably Swiss, the necklace itself may have been rethreaded. The little gilt beads are not typical, and an original Swiss Halsbätti would have had more filigree spacers or end plaques.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Facetted garnet-coloured glass and gilt beads, with a silver-gilt filigree clasp set with garnets
Brief description
Garnet choker necklace (Halsbätti) with silver-gilt filigree clasp, Switzerland, 1800-1870.
Physical description
Choker necklace, consisting of eight rows of small facetted garnet-coloured beads interspersed with gilt beads, with a three-part silver-gilt clasp set with facetted garnets. The clasp has a flat ring at the end of one part, and a corresponding long hook on the back of the other.
Dimensions
  • Length: 36.4cm
  • Width: 3.2cm
  • Depth: 1.1cm
Marks and inscriptions
'I F' either side of an unidentifiable vertical object (On hook.)
Summary
Choker necklaces were worn with traditional costume throughout the alpine regions of south Germany, Austria and Switzerland. They were originally used to hide the signs of goitre, a disfiguring disease caused by lack of iodine, which was endemic in the high Alps.

In Switzerland these necklaces, called Halsbätti, were usually made of loose chains of silver links, or beads imitating garnet or coral. The designs varied from valley to valley, but most had a three-part clasp, like this one, of silver-gilt filigree set with garnets. They were worn over a thin scarf of black silk. The name Halsbätti means a rosary worn on the neck, because the beads resembled rosary beads. It never had any religious meaning.

This necklace was described as German when it was acquired in 1872, but it is more characteristic of Swiss traditional jewellery. The filigree clasps worn with German and Austrian necklaces were quite different in shape. Although the clasp and the garnet-coloured beads are probably Swiss, the necklace itself may have been rethreaded. The little gilt beads are not typical, and an original Swiss Halsbätti would have had more filigree spacers or end plaques.
Collection
Accession number
154-1872

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Record createdJune 24, 2009
Record URL
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