Clasp thumbnail 1
Not currently on display at the V&A

Clasp

1600-1800 (made), 1850-1930 (altered)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This clasp was probably put together in the early 20th century, using pieces of earlier Hungarian jewellery. Old Hungarian jewellery was very popular in Britain in the 19th century, and was extensively copied and reproduced by goldsmiths throughout the Austro- Hungarian Empire until well into the 20th century.

The main components of the clasp are gold buttons set with pearls and garnets. These are probably early 18th century in date, and would originally have been part of the traditional man's costume which had become official court dress by the 19th century. The turquoise enamelled piece in the centre was probably a link from a necklace or bracelet, as it has parallel tubes running along its back. The plaque hanging below it has bars on the back, showing it was originally worn as a slide on a ribbon, and also probably dates from the early 18th century. The little pendant of St. George may be even earlier.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 2 parts.

  • Clasp
  • Clasp
Materials and techniques
Enamelled gold set with garnets and pearls
Brief description
Two-part enamelled gold clasp with pendant set with garnets and pearls, Hungary, 17th to 20th century.
Physical description
Two-part clasp with pendant attached. The clasp consists of an openwork frame with two large buttons and one smaller attached on each part. The buttons are made of tiers of openwork rosettes set with garnets in closed settings and wired pearls. Over the hook there is a link from a necklace, set with a large wired pearl, enamelled in black and turquoise, and with two parallel tubes running through it. Two short lengths of chain hang from this link, supporting a pendant made from a necklace slide, enamelled in black and white and set with four garnets, with a pendant of St George killing the dragon, enamelled on both sides, below it.
Dimensions
  • Length: 102mm
  • Width: 83mm
  • Depth: 20mm
Credit line
Gift of Countess Harley Teleki
Subjects depicted
Summary
This clasp was probably put together in the early 20th century, using pieces of earlier Hungarian jewellery. Old Hungarian jewellery was very popular in Britain in the 19th century, and was extensively copied and reproduced by goldsmiths throughout the Austro- Hungarian Empire until well into the 20th century.

The main components of the clasp are gold buttons set with pearls and garnets. These are probably early 18th century in date, and would originally have been part of the traditional man's costume which had become official court dress by the 19th century. The turquoise enamelled piece in the centre was probably a link from a necklace or bracelet, as it has parallel tubes running along its back. The plaque hanging below it has bars on the back, showing it was originally worn as a slide on a ribbon, and also probably dates from the early 18th century. The little pendant of St. George may be even earlier.
Bibliographic reference
Byford, R. 'More Than Meets the Eye - Repurposed Hungarian Buttons at the V&A'. Jewellery History Today, 33 (Autumn 2008), p. 8.
Collection
Accession number
M.462&PART-1936

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Record createdJune 24, 2009
Record URL
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