Crosses are the most distinctive element in French traditional jewellery. Every French woman owned one. They usually wore them on a black velvet ribbon, fastened tightly round the neck like a choker, with a slide at the front. The ribbon passes through the bale of the cross, and is then threaded through a hole or loop at the base of the slide, and out at either side. It is tied in a bow at the back of the neck.

In Brittany the cross and slide were sewn onto the black velvet ribbon, rather than threaded on it. This meant that the ribbon always remained flat, and was therefore open to further decoration. Breton women decorated their ribbons with metal appliqués in all kinds of shapes, such as stars and flowers.

The V&A bought traditional jewellery from many European countries for the International Exhibition in London in 1872, including this necklace. It cost £1 14s. and was described as coming from Provence. Coinciding with this exhibition, Breton necklets, as they were usually known in Britain, became very popular in London, and were high fashion for a few years.