Earring thumbnail 1
Not currently on display at the V&A

Earring

1832-1860 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Italian women have always loved lavish display. Even for the poorest, a rich show of jewellery was all important. Italian goldsmiths were expert at making a little material go a very long way. Many pieces seem too large to wear comfortably, but they are usually made of very thin gold, and are much lighter than they appear.

This earring comes from the south of Italy, and is entirely covered with seed pearls, which were abundant in the warm waters of the Mediterranean before the industrial age. They are each pierced and attached to the gold frame by silver wires which are bunched and tied in knots at the back. It was common for the pendant to hang loosely from the earring itself, as here. This allowed the owner to add it or take it off easily, depending on her requirements.

The earring is marked on both parts with the gold marks of the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies from the early 19th century. It was bought as part of the Castellani collection of Italian Peasant Jewellery at the International Exhibition, Paris, 1867.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Gold pierced frame set with seed pearls attached by silver wire
Brief description
Gold pendant earring set with seed pearls, Southern Italy, 1832-1860.
Physical description
Gold two-part earring set with seed pearls consisting of a flat disc with a hinged wire, and a loose flat pear-shaped pendant. The pendant has a protrusion on either side at the top, making a lyre shape. Both parts are made from a mass of small rings to which the pierced seed pearls are attached on the front, secured by silver wires which are knotted together, mainly in groups of three, at the back.
Dimensions
  • Length: 69mm
  • Width: 25mm
  • Depth: 6mm
Marks and inscriptions
  • Woman's head between the characters 'N' and '6' in a rectangular frame. (Marked twice, on side of wire, and on suspension ring of pendant.)
    Translation
    Mark for 500 standard gold, Kingdom of the Two Sicilies (southern Italy) 1832-1872.
  • Two letters, possibly 'JJ' in rectangular frame. (On side of wire.)
    Translation
    Mark of unidentified maker.
Summary
Italian women have always loved lavish display. Even for the poorest, a rich show of jewellery was all important. Italian goldsmiths were expert at making a little material go a very long way. Many pieces seem too large to wear comfortably, but they are usually made of very thin gold, and are much lighter than they appear.

This earring comes from the south of Italy, and is entirely covered with seed pearls, which were abundant in the warm waters of the Mediterranean before the industrial age. They are each pierced and attached to the gold frame by silver wires which are bunched and tied in knots at the back. It was common for the pendant to hang loosely from the earring itself, as here. This allowed the owner to add it or take it off easily, depending on her requirements.

The earring is marked on both parts with the gold marks of the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies from the early 19th century. It was bought as part of the Castellani collection of Italian Peasant Jewellery at the International Exhibition, Paris, 1867.
Collection
Accession number
MET.LOST.986

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Record createdJune 24, 2009
Record URL
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