Clasp thumbnail 1
Clasp thumbnail 2
Not currently on display at the V&A

Clasp

1750-1799 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Jewellery worn with traditional costume was often used in ways which are not required on modern dress.

This clasp was described as a Gollermasche when it was acquired in 1872. Gollermaschen, or collar pendants, were hung from the collar chains used to keep in place the detachable white linen collar which was part of traditional dress in the region. It is more likely to be a Brustkettenhalter, or breast chain clasp. This was worn on the bodice, where it secured the end of the silver chain which crisscrossed the front of the bodice, holding it tightly laced like a corset. The delicate pierced silver tracery over a polished or gilded back plate is typical of traditional jewellery from the Ulm area in the second half of the 18th century.

It was bought for £1 10s. 4d. at the International Exhibition, London, 1872.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Silver, partly gilded
Brief description
Silver clasp (Brustkettenhalter), partly gilded, Ulm (Germany), 1750-1799.
Physical description
Horizontal oval plate of silver with the sides scalloped to match the edges of the appliqué attached to its face. The appliqué is made of silver, cut out in a complex fretwork of ribbon scrolls, with a flower in the centre of each side, and a gilded urn fastened to the centre. It is attached to the back plate by four hooks of wire, one on each side at the back of the flowers. On the back are two long hooks, bent back parallel to each other.
Dimensions
  • Width: 68mm
  • Height: 60mm
  • Depth: 18mm
Marks and inscriptions
  • A vertical oval, divided horizontally, with the upper part hatched. (On back of back plate.)
    Translation
    Town mark of Ulm, 17th - 18th century.
  • 'CLW' in shield-shaped frame. (On back of back plate.)
    Translation
    Mark of unidentified maker.
Subjects depicted
Summary
Jewellery worn with traditional costume was often used in ways which are not required on modern dress.

This clasp was described as a Gollermasche when it was acquired in 1872. Gollermaschen, or collar pendants, were hung from the collar chains used to keep in place the detachable white linen collar which was part of traditional dress in the region. It is more likely to be a Brustkettenhalter, or breast chain clasp. This was worn on the bodice, where it secured the end of the silver chain which crisscrossed the front of the bodice, holding it tightly laced like a corset. The delicate pierced silver tracery over a polished or gilded back plate is typical of traditional jewellery from the Ulm area in the second half of the 18th century.

It was bought for £1 10s. 4d. at the International Exhibition, London, 1872.
Collection
Accession number
952-1872

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Record createdJune 24, 2009
Record URL
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