Earring thumbnail 1
Earring thumbnail 2
Not currently on display at the V&A

Earring

1800-1890 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Earrings were popular among all the Slav peoples. In Russia in the 16th and 17th centuries both men and women wore them, and some silversmiths worked exclusively as earring makers. By the 19th century they were only worn by women.

From the early 18th century the design of Russian earrings followed two paths. The Russian aristocracy increasingly wore earrings of international design, but the rural population kept to the old traditional patterns. These earrings in traditional styles were made by local silversmiths, who rarely marked their work. As a result, it is very difficult to tell the difference between old earrings and traditional earrings in the old style.

The design of earrings like these, with square pendants set with gems, and smaller drops hanging from their lower edge, first appeared at the beginning of the 18th century. It remained popular until the 20th century, not only with Russian traditional dress, but also in the Balkans. The use of lower cost materials in these earrings, to imitate rubies and emeralds, is typical of traditional jewellery of all kinds.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 2 parts.

  • Earring
  • Earring
Materials and techniques
Gold, partly enamelled in green, set with a garnet, with pearl and garnet bead pendants set in filigree
Brief description
Pair of gold pendant earrings decorated with filigree, enamel, garnets and pearls, Russia, 1800-1890.
Physical description
Pair of gold pendant earrings, decorated with enamel and filigree, and set with garnets and pearls. Each earring consists of a circular wire with a rosette attached by a hinge to its lower edge. A square hollow pendant is attached by hinge to the lower edge of the rosette. Both the rosette and the square have a flat cut garnet in the centre, surrounded by cells of green enamel imitating emeralds. There are five pendants hanging from the lower edge of the square, consisting of three pearls in conical filigree mounts alternating with two pearl and garnet pendants. There is a stamped pattern on the back of the central square.
Summary
Earrings were popular among all the Slav peoples. In Russia in the 16th and 17th centuries both men and women wore them, and some silversmiths worked exclusively as earring makers. By the 19th century they were only worn by women.

From the early 18th century the design of Russian earrings followed two paths. The Russian aristocracy increasingly wore earrings of international design, but the rural population kept to the old traditional patterns. These earrings in traditional styles were made by local silversmiths, who rarely marked their work. As a result, it is very difficult to tell the difference between old earrings and traditional earrings in the old style.

The design of earrings like these, with square pendants set with gems, and smaller drops hanging from their lower edge, first appeared at the beginning of the 18th century. It remained popular until the 20th century, not only with Russian traditional dress, but also in the Balkans. The use of lower cost materials in these earrings, to imitate rubies and emeralds, is typical of traditional jewellery of all kinds.
Collection
Accession number
221&A-1892

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Record createdJune 24, 2009
Record URL
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