Pair of Dress Hooks thumbnail 1
Not currently on display at the V&A

Pair of Dress Hooks

1850-1870 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

The most characteristic element of Swiss traditional jewellery is the lavish use of chains and filigree.

Göllerketten, meaning collar chains, are among the most characteristic kind. Originally Swiss women used laces to hold their detachable white linen collars in place, but by the 19th century they had switched to silver chains. They wore them in pairs, one on each side of the body. These chains linked the lower outside corners of the collar, at the front and back, by passing under the arm. At each end there was a decorative filigree hook, which was attached to the corners of the collar.

These two decorative hooks were probably part of such Göllerketten. They were described as 18th century, from Berne, when they were acquired in Lausanne in 1870. The Bernese costume had been adopted as an unofficial Swiss national costume in the second half of the 19th century, and was very popular in the UK at that time for dressing-up. Large quantities of Bernese-style chains and filigree were imported into the UK from around 1875, many silver-plated. These are typical of Bernese filigree ornaments of that time, and it is unlikely that they were made much earlier than 1870.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 2 parts.

  • Fastener
  • Fastener
Materials and techniques
Silver-plated filigree
Brief description
Pair of silver-plated filigree dress hooks, Berne (Switzerland), 1850-1870.
Physical description
Two silver-plated filigree discs, with a flat central dome, and applied arcs of beaded wire. On the back of each is a short length of wire, with one end coiled to make a loop, and the other bent into a hook.
Dimensions
  • Length: 6.9cm
  • Width: 3.4cm
  • Depth: 1.2cm
Summary
The most characteristic element of Swiss traditional jewellery is the lavish use of chains and filigree.

Göllerketten, meaning collar chains, are among the most characteristic kind. Originally Swiss women used laces to hold their detachable white linen collars in place, but by the 19th century they had switched to silver chains. They wore them in pairs, one on each side of the body. These chains linked the lower outside corners of the collar, at the front and back, by passing under the arm. At each end there was a decorative filigree hook, which was attached to the corners of the collar.

These two decorative hooks were probably part of such Göllerketten. They were described as 18th century, from Berne, when they were acquired in Lausanne in 1870. The Bernese costume had been adopted as an unofficial Swiss national costume in the second half of the 19th century, and was very popular in the UK at that time for dressing-up. Large quantities of Bernese-style chains and filigree were imported into the UK from around 1875, many silver-plated. These are typical of Bernese filigree ornaments of that time, and it is unlikely that they were made much earlier than 1870.
Collection
Accession number
179:1,2-1870

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Record createdJune 24, 2009
Record URL
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