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Chasuble

  • Place of origin:

    England (made)

  • Date:

    ca. 1743 (made)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Unknown

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Brocaded silk taffeta with silk and silver-gilt threads, and trimmed with gold lace

  • Credit Line:

    Given by Dom. Bede Millard

  • Museum number:

    T.280-1990

  • Gallery location:

    In Storage

Physical description

Chasuble of ivory silk taffeta brocaded with coloured silks and silver-gilt thread with a rich pattern of textured gold scrolls and floral motifs trimmed with flowers in coloured silks, some with gold details. Flowers include roses, auriculas and daffodils. The neck is trimmed with a broad band of gold lace. The texture is rich.

Taffeta découpure 5 threads. The brocaded silk wefts are unbound but there are traces of a binding warp on the metal thread, possibly a 3/1 binding taken from the ground.

Metal thread - Filé (or plain); Clinquant, a silver-gilt strip wound around a thread of frisé (or frost).

Place of Origin

England (made)

Date

ca. 1743 (made)

Artist/maker

Unknown

Materials and Techniques

Brocaded silk taffeta with silk and silver-gilt threads, and trimmed with gold lace

Dimensions

Width: 20.25 in repeat, loom, Height: 35.5 in repeat, Height: 35.5 in centre front, Height: 90.2 cm centre front, Height: 42 in centre back, Height: 60.8 cm centre back, Width: 26 in maximum front, Width: 66 cm maximum front, Width: 28 in maximum back, Width: 71.1 cm maximum back, Weight: 1.06 kg

Object history note

Registered File number 1990/1466.

The church was that of A.W.M. Pugin and it is possible that the chasuble was made up for the church. It has a 19th century lining but is a particularly fine dress material. It can be dated by comparison with the silk designs of Anna Maria Garthwaite of 1742-1743. The large gold motifs are unlikely to be later. Since the Museum possesses all her designs for this period, she did not design this silk. It is perhaps the work of her best known rival, John Vansommer.

Descriptive line

Chasuble of brocaded silk taffeta, made in England, ca. 1743

Materials

Silk (textile); Taffeta; Silk thread; Silver-gilt thread

Techniques

Brocaded; Lace making

Subjects depicted

Flowers; Scrolls; Floral

Categories

Lace; Ecclesiastical textiles; Clothing; Religion

Collection

Textiles and Fashion Collection

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