Skirt, linen embroidered with silk, Greek (Dodecanese, Astypalaia) around 1900-1929.

Embroidered skirt, silk on linen. Design of alternating ships and animals.

Colours: red, blue, green, yellow, pink.

Prof R. M. Dawkins

Received from Prof R. M. Dawkins of Abergale and Exeter College, Oxford.

A note in the register says: "Dresses of Astypalaea are famous and widely illustrated, since they show more embroidery, and are althogether more romantic than the other dresses of the Dodecanese (see BFAC Cat No.81, Tarsouli Pls.43, 46, Johnstone Pls. 64, 65, Monte Santo, L'Isola dei Gigli, among others.) It is noitceable, however, that none of the older illustrators of Levantine costume include a dress from this island.

In the museum collection three complete skirts, one skirt border and one panel from a skirt give a good idea of the patterns found on the skirts of these dresses, which in general were not joined to the bodice. All are obviously from the ninteenth century.

These skirt borders seem to be invariably in strong colours, coarsely worked (in contrast to the sleeves which tend to be in the traditional red and blue and are sometimes very fine indeed), and suggest that such skirts are not part of the costume earlier than the middle of the nineteenth century.

This is Dawkins No.423, 'Ships and curly tailed deer. Bought in Astypalaea.'

T.101-1950