We don’t have an image of this object online yet. V&A Images may have a photograph that we can’t show online, but it may be possible to supply one to you. Email us at vaimages@vam.ac.uk for guidance about fees and timescales, quoting the accession number: T.275-1978
Find out about our images

Image of Gallery in South Kensington
On display at V&A South Kensington
Europe 1600-1815, Room 7, The Sheikha Amna Bint Mohammed Al Thani Gallery

Sheet

ca. 1640-1660 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Most 17th century inventories, however wealthy the household, list sheets of some kind, although there is great variety in both quality and quantity. In 1638 the sheets which belonged to Anne, Viscountess Dorchester, were listed as fine holland, flaxen, middling, and 'olde thinne'.

The fabric used for making into pillow cases and sheets was woven from flax or hemp. Flax made the best quality linen. Such linen, used for clothing as well as household goods, which was sometimes described as 'holland', or 'cambric', after the town of Cambrai, France, formed a significant export trade from the Netherlands, Flanders, and northern France. The majority of people would have had bed linen made from locally-grown, spun and bleached flax or hemp, however. Different parts of the plants produced fibres of differing quality, giving a range of sheeting from fine to very coarse and rough.

Much of this sheet may have been home made. The women of the household may have spun the linen thread and then sent it away for weaving. The woven linen was then cut, sewn and embroidered at home, where the bobbin lace could also have been made. The initials embroidered on it are those of the owners.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Linen with whitework and lace
Brief description
Sheet with pulled thread work and bobbin lace, Netherlands, 1640-1660
Physical description
Sheet made from two widths of linen with edges rolled and hemmed with a double line of pulled thread work. The two halves are partly joined by a narrow insertion of plaited bobbin lace with a simple zig-zag pattern. For the last approx 96 cm the two halves of the sheet are cut back and the space filled with an inserted band of linen and insertions of the same bobbin lace. The top edge of the sheet and the top 100 cm approx of each side are trimmed with a small, scalloped bobbin lace. The inserted panel in the centre is decorated with whitework embroidery, and the pattern of diamonds and triangles is worked mainly in satin stitch, but in the centre of each geometric motif are small cutwork squares with simple needle fillings. Rows of single, small cutwork squares decorate the lines separating the motifs and other outlines are defined by rows of tiny eyelet holes.

As well as the initials embroidered on the sheet, it has a series of pin holes that look like initials that had previously been worked on it, and subsequently unpicked.
Dimensions
  • Length: 1020mm
  • Width: 5120mm
Marks and inscriptions
  • 'AV' (Worked in bottom left corner, in linen thread in eyelet stitch.)
  • 'WHW' (Initials in red silk in cross stitch in the top left corner)
Credit line
Given by Miss M Waller
Object history
The sheet was said to have been in the possession of the donor's family since the 17th century.

The white initials, the white embroidery and the lace are in a style common in the Friesland area of Holland. A similar sheet in a private Dutch collection is dated 1663. See also the pillow covers dated 1640 : T.206 and 207-1966.
Summary
Most 17th century inventories, however wealthy the household, list sheets of some kind, although there is great variety in both quality and quantity. In 1638 the sheets which belonged to Anne, Viscountess Dorchester, were listed as fine holland, flaxen, middling, and 'olde thinne'.

The fabric used for making into pillow cases and sheets was woven from flax or hemp. Flax made the best quality linen. Such linen, used for clothing as well as household goods, which was sometimes described as 'holland', or 'cambric', after the town of Cambrai, France, formed a significant export trade from the Netherlands, Flanders, and northern France. The majority of people would have had bed linen made from locally-grown, spun and bleached flax or hemp, however. Different parts of the plants produced fibres of differing quality, giving a range of sheeting from fine to very coarse and rough.

Much of this sheet may have been home made. The women of the household may have spun the linen thread and then sent it away for weaving. The woven linen was then cut, sewn and embroidered at home, where the bobbin lace could also have been made. The initials embroidered on it are those of the owners.
Bibliographic reference
Leslie Clarkson, The Linen Industry in Early Modern Europe, in David Jenkins ed., The Cambridge History of Western Textiles, 2003, pp.473-492.
Collection
Accession number
T.275-1978

About this object record

Explore the Collections contains over a million catalogue records, and over half a million images. It is a working database that includes information compiled over the life of the museum. Some of our records may contain offensive and discriminatory language, or reflect outdated ideas, practice and analysis. We are committed to addressing these issues, and to review and update our records accordingly.

You can write to us to suggest improvements to the record.

Suggest feedback

Record createdJune 24, 2009
Record URL
Download as: JSON