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Coat and Waistcoat

1800-1805 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Man’s court coat and waistcoat, the coat of brown silk velvet, uncut and voided in a chevron pattern. It has a standing 2-inch (5 cm) collar and curving 2-piece sleeves, slightly gathered into the sleeve-head and ending in cuffs, 4 inches (10 cm) deep. The fronts curve from neck to hem, with pleats beside the centre-back opening. Each front has a pocket and pointed pocket flap. The waistcoat, sleeves and pocket flaps are lined with ivory silk twill, the pockets with bleached linen. The coat is interlined with padding in the chest and shoulders. The coat is embroidered-to-shape with silk floss in white and shades of blue, pink, brown, yellow and green, in a pattern of flowers and leaves, on the collar, cuffs and pocket flaps, around the pockets and along the front edges, side pleats and back opening. There are 3 embroidered buttonholes on the left front and 10 embroidered buttons on the right front edge, 3 below each pocket and 3 on each cuff.

The waistcoat with a 1¼-inch (3.3 cm) standing collar, curving fronts and skirts reaching to the top of the thigh. Each front has a pocket and pointed pocket flap. The fronts and pocket flaps are made of ribbed white silk; the back is cream worsted twill. The waistcoat and pockets are lined with linen; the front skirt and pocket-flap linings and front facings are white silk twill. The waistcoat is embroidered-to-shape with silk floss in red and shades of blue, pink, brown, yellow and green, in a pattern of flowers and leaves, on the collar and pocket flaps, and along the front edges and hems, with a repeating pattern of leaves on the fronts. There are 9 worked buttonholes along the left front with 11 embroidered buttons on the right front.

The ensemble was altered in the 19th century, probably for fancy dress. The pleats of the coat were stitched down and a wig-bag sewn to the back neck Three pairs of silk ribbon ties were added to the back of the waistcoat.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 2 parts.

  • Coat
  • Waistcoat
Materials and techniques
Silk, linen; hand-woven, hand-embroidered, hand-sewn
Brief description
Man's court coat and waistcoat, 1800-1805, English; Brown velvet coat and white ribbed silk waistcoat, embroidered, altered 1870-1910
Physical description
Man’s court coat and waistcoat, the coat of brown silk velvet, uncut and voided in a chevron pattern. It has a standing 2-inch (5 cm) collar and curving 2-piece sleeves, slightly gathered into the sleeve-head and ending in cuffs, 4 inches (10 cm) deep. The fronts curve from neck to hem, with pleats beside the centre-back opening. Each front has a pocket and pointed pocket flap. The waistcoat, sleeves and pocket flaps are lined with ivory silk twill, the pockets with bleached linen. The coat is interlined with padding in the chest and shoulders. The coat is embroidered-to-shape with silk floss in white and shades of blue, pink, brown, yellow and green, in a pattern of flowers and leaves, on the collar, cuffs and pocket flaps, around the pockets and along the front edges, side pleats and back opening. There are 3 embroidered buttonholes on the left front and 10 embroidered buttons on the right front edge, 3 below each pocket and 3 on each cuff.

The waistcoat with a 1¼-inch (3.3 cm) standing collar, curving fronts and skirts reaching to the top of the thigh. Each front has a pocket and pointed pocket flap. The fronts and pocket flaps are made of ribbed white silk; the back is cream worsted twill. The waistcoat and pockets are lined with linen; the front skirt and pocket-flap linings and front facings are white silk twill. The waistcoat is embroidered-to-shape with silk floss in red and shades of blue, pink, brown, yellow and green, in a pattern of flowers and leaves, on the collar and pocket flaps, and along the front edges and hems, with a repeating pattern of leaves on the fronts. There are 9 worked buttonholes along the left front with 11 embroidered buttons on the right front.

The ensemble was altered in the 19th century, probably for fancy dress. The pleats of the coat were stitched down and a wig-bag sewn to the back neck Three pairs of silk ribbon ties were added to the back of the waistcoat.
Dimensions
  • Coat, top of right collar to hem length: 121.0cm (approx)
  • Coat, chest under armholes circumference: 108.0cm (approx)
  • Waistcoat, top of right collar to hem length: 66.0cm (approx)
  • Waistcoat, chest under armholes circumference: 99.0cm (approx)
Credit line
Bequeathed by C. A. Beavan
Object history
This waistcoat and dress coat are reputed to have been worn by Sir William Hamilton (1730-1803) when envoy to the Court of Naples 1764-1800.
Subject depicted
Collection
Accession number
T.231-1917

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Record createdJune 24, 2009
Record URL
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