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Doublet and Breeches

1630-35 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Man’s doublet and breeches of black figured silk. The doublet is interlined with wool and stiffened canvas, and lined with changeable (shot) yellow and pink silk taffeta. It has a 2¼-inch (5.6 cm) standing collar, 1½-inch (3.7 cm) wide shoulder wings and curving 2-piece sleeves, with a high waist and 8 deep, wide laps. Black silk woven lace, ¼-inch (5 mm) wide, in parallel diagonal lines decorates the shoulder wings, fronts of the sleeves and the laps. There are 29 worked buttonholes down the left front and 9 on each sleeve; no buttons remain. On the left side at the waist, there is a length of black linen bobbin lace with an aiguillette at each end, to hold a belt. The belly piece is made of pasteboard, wrapped with blue wool and the yellow/pink lining. The lacing band inside the waist has 16 metal loops and there is a lacing loop of yellow/pink silk in each side above the waist.

The breeches are made of the same silk, interlined with wool and lined with chamois leather with pockets on each side of the same fabric. They are wide, gathered into the waistband and end below the knee. There are 16 1¾-inch (4.4 cm) metal loops sewn to the waistband.

The black silk is disintegrating, probably due to an iron mordant, and large areas are lost. Attempts at restoration were made on the breeches; the silk and its wool backing on lower legs are lost and have been replaced with brown canvas.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 2 parts.

  • Doublet
  • Breeches
Materials and techniques
silk, linen, wool, paper; hand-woven, hand-sewn
Brief description
Man's doublet and breeches, 1630-35, English; Black figured silk, Italian, trimmed with black silk woven lace
Physical description
Man’s doublet and breeches of black figured silk. The doublet is interlined with wool and stiffened canvas, and lined with changeable (shot) yellow and pink silk taffeta. It has a 2¼-inch (5.6 cm) standing collar, 1½-inch (3.7 cm) wide shoulder wings and curving 2-piece sleeves, with a high waist and 8 deep, wide laps. Black silk woven lace, ¼-inch (5 mm) wide, in parallel diagonal lines decorates the shoulder wings, fronts of the sleeves and the laps. There are 29 worked buttonholes down the left front and 9 on each sleeve; no buttons remain. On the left side at the waist, there is a length of black linen bobbin lace with an aiguillette at each end, to hold a belt. The belly piece is made of pasteboard, wrapped with blue wool and the yellow/pink lining. The lacing band inside the waist has 16 metal loops and there is a lacing loop of yellow/pink silk in each side above the waist.

The breeches are made of the same silk, interlined with wool and lined with chamois leather with pockets on each side of the same fabric. They are wide, gathered into the waistband and end below the knee. There are 16 1¾-inch (4.4 cm) metal loops sewn to the waistband.

The black silk is disintegrating, probably due to an iron mordant, and large areas are lost. Attempts at restoration were made on the breeches; the silk and its wool backing on lower legs are lost and have been replaced with brown canvas.
Dimensions
  • Doublet, top of collar at right to bottom centre front length: 71.5cm (approx)
  • Doublet, chest under armholes circumference: 117.0cm (approx)
  • Breeches, overall length: 81.5cm (approx)
  • Breeches, waistband circumference: 113.0cm (approx)
Object history
Part of the Isham collection
Collection
Accession number
186-1900

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Record createdJune 24, 2009
Record URL
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