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Gown

1720-25 (weaving), 1725 - 1740 (sewing), 1775-85 (altered), 1870-1910 (altered)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

A woman's gown of oyster silk satin woven with light emerald green, maroon and pink silk in a design has a point repeat of sprigs with stems and flowers. The satin of 8 ground, no separate ground weft or binding warp. The pattern is bound in 3/1 twill and there are two pattern wefts throughout the fabric, one green and the other alternating maroon and pink. One weft forms the ground while the other appears bound in twill on the surface of the silk. The complete loom width is 2 x 10.125 and the selvedge is of satin.

The gown is open at the front to the waist with robings, with a fitted back and elbow length sleeves. It originally was probably made of 5 widths of silk, with a matching petticoat. The current construction reflects alterations made in the late 1770s or early 1780s. Two widths of silk—probably from the petticoat—have been added to the centre front to close the gown. The sleeves were made narrower and original cuffs removed; the bodice was probably relined.

The robings have been un-stitched, probably for late 19th-century fancy dress and reproduction cuffs in coral viscose satin added for display after acquisition.



Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Silk, linen, silk thread, linen thread; hand-woven satin weave, hand-sewn.
Brief description
Woman's gown, 1775-85 of silk satin, oyster-coloured ground with green, coral, red, woven 1720-1725, English, altered 1870-1910
Physical description
A woman's gown of oyster silk satin woven with light emerald green, maroon and pink silk in a design has a point repeat of sprigs with stems and flowers. The satin of 8 ground, no separate ground weft or binding warp. The pattern is bound in 3/1 twill and there are two pattern wefts throughout the fabric, one green and the other alternating maroon and pink. One weft forms the ground while the other appears bound in twill on the surface of the silk. The complete loom width is 2 x 10.125 and the selvedge is of satin.

The gown is open at the front to the waist with robings, with a fitted back and elbow length sleeves. It originally was probably made of 5 widths of silk, with a matching petticoat. The current construction reflects alterations made in the late 1770s or early 1780s. Two widths of silk—probably from the petticoat—have been added to the centre front to close the gown. The sleeves were made narrower and original cuffs removed; the bodice was probably relined.

The robings have been un-stitched, probably for late 19th-century fancy dress and reproduction cuffs in coral viscose satin added for display after acquisition.

Dimensions
  • Repeat length: 17.5in
  • Repeat width: 10.125in
  • Between selvedges width: 20.25in
  • Selvedge width: 0.25in
  • Shoulder to hem length: 54in
  • Waist circumference: 30in
  • Shoulder to back hem length: 135.0cm (approx)
Credit line
Given by Mrs L. E. A. Anderson
Object history
Given by Mrs L E A Anderson of Wimbledon in 1962. Registered file 1962/2272
Collection
Accession number
T.180-1962

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Record createdJune 24, 2009
Record URL
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