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Pouch

  • Place of origin:

    England (made)

  • Date:

    ca. 1600 (made)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Unknown

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Embroidered linen canvas with silks, silver and silver-gilt threads, lined with silk

  • Credit Line:

    Given by Mark Oliver

  • Museum number:

    T.91-1972

  • Gallery location:

    British Galleries, Room 58b, case 5

The presence of the royal coat of arms does not necessarily denote that an object had a royal owner. Usually, it was a profession of loyalty to, or a symbol of patronage from, a particular monarch. The initials which surround the armorial are probably those of the family who owned the pouch.

This pouch probably contained sweet-smelling herbs, which were thought to help induce sleep. Pleasant scents were also believed to help to ward off sickness, with a prime example of the use of this theory being the ‘beak’ masks worn by plague doctors from at least the seventeenth-century.

The richness of the materials used in the object’s production suggest a wealthy source, and the somewhat naïve execution of the design points to an amateur craftsperson, possibly a child, as its maker. This would not have been unusual, as even aristocratic girls were expected to learn needlework as a means of education, instilling discipline, and as a means of expression.

Physical description

Pouch of embroidered linen canvas. The ground is embroidered with silver thread in tent stitch, the top right-hand side in small close stitches, and the remainder in large widely-spaced stitches. The design is embroidered with silver gilt thread and silk in shades of blue, yellow, brown, beige, orange, green, pink, cream and black in fine tent stitches.

In the centre, a crowned lion and griffin support the Order of the Garter within which are the arms of the Tudors, and initials 'E R' for Elizabeth Regina. Above is a crown surmounted by an orb and flanked by two swans and two sets of initials 'E R'.

The ground is scattered with sprigs of strawberries, pansies and roses and with small dogs and rabbits. Also scattered over the ground are a number of initials. The sachet is lined with pink silk and there are the remains of six irregularly placed pairs of pink ribbon ties. Behind the ties and in the seams are fragments of a second lining of black silk.

Place of Origin

England (made)

Date

ca. 1600 (made)

Artist/maker

Unknown

Materials and Techniques

Embroidered linen canvas with silks, silver and silver-gilt threads, lined with silk

Marks and inscriptions

'E R'
Embroidered in the centre within the Order of the Garter, initials for Elizabeth Regina

'E. R.' [above the crown]
Embroidered

'DIEV . ET . MON . DROIT'
God and my right
Motto of the royal family of Great Britain. Found here on on a label below the Order of the Garter.

'S B K' [unclear]
Initials over the ground

'M B A' [unclear]
Initials over the ground

'HONI SOIT QUI MAL Y PENSE'
'Shamed be the person who thinks evil of it'
Motto of the Order of the Garter.

Dimensions

Width: 30.5 cm, Depth: 19.7 cm, Thickness: 4 cm approximate

Object history note

Formerly in the collection of Sir Frederick Richmond

Historical context note

Pouches such as this contained aromatic herbs which were thought to help induce sleep and ward off sickness. The modern equivalent is known as a 'dream pillow'.

Descriptive line

Pouch of embroidered linen canvas and silk, made in England, ca. 1600

Labels and date

British Galleries label text:

POUCH
with the arms of Elizabeth I
About 1600

This pouch may have contained sweet-smelling herbs thought to help induce sleep and ward off sickness. It shows the Tudor arms with the English lion and Welsh dragon as supporters. The initials 'E.R.' are for Elizabeth Regina (Queen Elizabeth I). The other initials are probably those of the family who owned it.

Linen canvas embroidered with silk, silver and gilded silver thread
Embroidered in England

Given by Mark Oliver
Museum no. T.91-1972 []

Materials

Canvas; Silver; Silk; Linen

Techniques

Embroidering

Subjects depicted

Lions; Pansies; Roses; Coats of arms; Dogs; Rabbits; Swans; Griffins

Categories

Embroidery; Textiles; Interiors; Royalty; Heraldry; British Galleries; Europeana Fashion Project

Production Type

Unique

Collection

Textiles and Fashion Collection

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