Gown thumbnail 1
Gown thumbnail 2
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Not currently on display at the V&A

Gown

1740s (embroidered), 1750 - 1770 (embroidered), 1780s (sewing)
Artist/Maker
Place Of Origin

A woman's gown and petticoat of cotton twill tamboured with coloured silks in a large pattern of flowers and leaves. The gown is open at the front with shaped, two-piece elbow-length sleeves. The bodice and skirt were cut separately and sewn together at the waist sea; the waistline at the front is slightly above the natural level. The bodice and sleeves are lined with linen. The bodice fronts and two back pieces were lined separately and then sewn together. Stitching in the lining beside the centre back seam of the bodice creates two casings for boning (since removed). Stitching in the lining around the front neckline forms a casing for a drawstring of narrow linen tape. A boned lacing band is sewn to each bodice front. The back is made of 4 shaped pieces, extending to a point at the centre back waist. The skirt is made of one width of cotton with many pieced sections, and flat pleated into the waist seam. The pocket openings are in the skirt side seams. The front edges and hem of the skirt are faced with a deep band of watered red silk.

The petticoat is made of 2 widths of cotton with three partial panels, and piecings of a later embroidery. There is a box pleat at centre front and flat pleats at the sides and back. The waist is bound with narrow linen tape, which runs through a casing in the hem of the back either side of the centre back, and serves as the fastenings.. There are pocket openings in each side seam. The hem is bound with two different widths of linen tape. Remnants of yellow silk at the waist seam on the inside may have been a lining.

The gown and petticoat have been pieced and remade, possibly from a furnishing.


object details
Categories
Object Type
Parts
This object consists of 2 parts.

  • Gown
  • Petticoat
Materials and Techniques
Cotton, linen, silk thread, linen thread, whalebone; hand-woven, hand-tamboured, hand-sewn
Brief Description
A woman's gown and petticoat, 1780s, British; two patterns of cotton, chainstitched with coloured silks, Indian, one a large pattern of flowers and leaves, 1740s, another trails of smaller flowers, 1750-70
Physical Description
A woman's gown and petticoat of cotton twill tamboured with coloured silks in a large pattern of flowers and leaves. The gown is open at the front with shaped, two-piece elbow-length sleeves. The bodice and skirt were cut separately and sewn together at the waist sea; the waistline at the front is slightly above the natural level. The bodice and sleeves are lined with linen. The bodice fronts and two back pieces were lined separately and then sewn together. Stitching in the lining beside the centre back seam of the bodice creates two casings for boning (since removed). Stitching in the lining around the front neckline forms a casing for a drawstring of narrow linen tape. A boned lacing band is sewn to each bodice front. The back is made of 4 shaped pieces, extending to a point at the centre back waist. The skirt is made of one width of cotton with many pieced sections, and flat pleated into the waist seam. The pocket openings are in the skirt side seams. The front edges and hem of the skirt are faced with a deep band of watered red silk.



The petticoat is made of 2 widths of cotton with three partial panels, and piecings of a later embroidery. There is a box pleat at centre front and flat pleats at the sides and back. The waist is bound with narrow linen tape, which runs through a casing in the hem of the back either side of the centre back, and serves as the fastenings.. There are pocket openings in each side seam. The hem is bound with two different widths of linen tape. Remnants of yellow silk at the waist seam on the inside may have been a lining.



The gown and petticoat have been pieced and remade, possibly from a furnishing.
Dimensions
  • Cotton, selvedge to selvedge width: 88.0cm
Production typeUnique
Object history
Purchased from F. Gregory in 1901. RF# 89271/1901. Note on Registered Description: "Mr Gregory stated that his wife sat to Lord Leighton in this dress for the 'Sister's Kiss'. The dress then belonged to Lord Leighton, who bought it in Italy, and is said to have given £45 for it."
Collection
Accession Number
1324 & A-1901

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record createdJune 24, 2009
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