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Gown  thumbnail 2
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Gown

1760s (weaving), 1760s (sewing), 1785 - 1790 (altered)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

A woman's gown and petticoat of pale blue silk figured in white floral sprigs and diagonal trails. The gown is open at the front with elbow-length sleeves with narrow pleated cuffs. The bodice of the gown is separate from the skirts, with a fitted back, and robings at the front. The waistseam is just above the natural level and straight at the front and back. The bodice and sleeves are lined with linen. The skirt is pleated into the waistseam. The gown is made of 5 widths of silk and 2 partial widths on each front. The hem is faced with blue linen tape.

The petticoat is made of 3 widths of silk and heavily pieced at the back and top, with 2 pieces of plain blue silk taffeta on either side of the back opening. It is lined with white silk taffeta. The petticoat has a box pleat at the front and wide pleats around the sides and back. The waist is bound with linen tape, which originally extended into ties to fasten.

The gown and petticoat were probably made in the 1760s and the gown reconfigured in the late 1780s. The bodice removed from the skirts and re-sewn with two curving seams at the back, and re-seamed to the skirts. The sleeves may originally had ruffles which were replaced with cuffs. The front linings were unstitched from the bodice and an additional band of the figured silk added, possibly to enlarge the bodice. A piecing on the left front skirt with what appears to have been half of a buttoned stomacher may be a mend.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 2 parts.

  • Gown
  • Petticoat
Materials and techniques
Silk, linen, silk thread, linen thread; hand-woven and hand-sewn
Brief description
A woman's gown and petticoat,1785-90, English; Pale blue silk figured wiith white floral sprigs and diagonal trails, Spitalfields, 1760s
Physical description
A woman's gown and petticoat of pale blue silk figured in white floral sprigs and diagonal trails. The gown is open at the front with elbow-length sleeves with narrow pleated cuffs. The bodice of the gown is separate from the skirts, with a fitted back, and robings at the front. The waistseam is just above the natural level and straight at the front and back. The bodice and sleeves are lined with linen. The skirt is pleated into the waistseam. The gown is made of 5 widths of silk and 2 partial widths on each front. The hem is faced with blue linen tape.

The petticoat is made of 3 widths of silk and heavily pieced at the back and top, with 2 pieces of plain blue silk taffeta on either side of the back opening. It is lined with white silk taffeta. The petticoat has a box pleat at the front and wide pleats around the sides and back. The waist is bound with linen tape, which originally extended into ties to fasten.

The gown and petticoat were probably made in the 1760s and the gown reconfigured in the late 1780s. The bodice removed from the skirts and re-sewn with two curving seams at the back, and re-seamed to the skirts. The sleeves may originally had ruffles which were replaced with cuffs. The front linings were unstitched from the bodice and an additional band of the figured silk added, possibly to enlarge the bodice. A piecing on the left front skirt with what appears to have been half of a buttoned stomacher may be a mend.
Dimensions
  • Silk, selvedge to selvedge width: 47.5cm
Production typeUnique
Credit line
Given by Lady Harcourt Smith
Object history
Said to have belonged to a member of the family of the Earls of Derwentwater.
Collection
Accession number
T.165-1912

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Record createdJune 24, 2009
Record URL
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