Walking Costume thumbnail 1
Walking Costume thumbnail 2
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Not currently on display at the V&A

Walking Costume

c.1915 (designed)
Artist/Maker
Place Of Origin

This tailor made costume, designed by Lucile, shows the influence of the First World War on clothing of the period. The large pockets, belted waist and buttoned cuffs all show a military influence, whilst the straight cut, loose fitting jacket and pleated skirt demonstrate the more practical turn in women's clothing.

Lucile was born Lucy Sutherland in London in 1863. She began dressmaking for friends, and in 1891 opened her own fashion house. She married Sir Cosmo Duff Gordon in 1900. Lady Duff Gordon became a celebrated fashion designer with branches in New York (1909), Chicago (1911) and Paris (1911).

This ensemble is part of a collection of well over 100 pieces of clothing worn by Miss Heather Firbank and donated to the museum in 1960. Miss Firbank patronised many of the top London dress makers and the collection contains many pieces by Lucile.


object details
Categories
Object Type
Parts
This object consists of 2 parts.

  • Tailored Jacket
  • Tailored Skirt
Materials and Techniques
Wool gabardine
Brief Description
Tailored jacket and skirt. Dark grey wool serge, Lucile, London, c.1915
Physical Description
Woman's dark grey woollen serge coat and mid-calf skirt. The coat has a belt, and with pocket flaps at the hip with box-pleating falling below the flaps. Buttons down the front with decorative button and cuff detail. Peplum falls to knee length. Matching skirt with corresponding box-pleating to line up with the pleating on the coat.
Production typeHaute couture
Summary
This tailor made costume, designed by Lucile, shows the influence of the First World War on clothing of the period. The large pockets, belted waist and buttoned cuffs all show a military influence, whilst the straight cut, loose fitting jacket and pleated skirt demonstrate the more practical turn in women's clothing.



Lucile was born Lucy Sutherland in London in 1863. She began dressmaking for friends, and in 1891 opened her own fashion house. She married Sir Cosmo Duff Gordon in 1900. Lady Duff Gordon became a celebrated fashion designer with branches in New York (1909), Chicago (1911) and Paris (1911).



This ensemble is part of a collection of well over 100 pieces of clothing worn by Miss Heather Firbank and donated to the museum in 1960. Miss Firbank patronised many of the top London dress makers and the collection contains many pieces by Lucile.

Collection
Accession Number
T.27&A-1960

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record createdJune 24, 2009
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