Hood thumbnail 1
Not currently on display at the V&A

Hood

1600-1625 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This hood is an example of blackwork, a style of needlework popular in England in the late 16th and early 17th centuries. It was worked with a single colour of silk, usually black, as on this hood, but also blue, red or green on linen. Like other examples of blackwork in black silk, the embroidery threads are disintegrating. This is because iron was used as a mordant or fixative for the black dye. It eventually oxidises, causing the silk thread to crumble.

Although a few finely worked linen hoods survive in museum collections, they are very rarely seen in portraits of the late 16th and early 17th century. It is possible that they were outdoor and/or middle-class accessories and so seldom appear in Tudor and Jacobean portraiture which emphasises the formal dress of the aristocracy. So far, only one surviving brass memorial and a rubbing of a lost brass showing women wearing hoods, have been found.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Linen, silk thread; hand-sewn, hand-embroidered, with hand-made bobbin lace
Brief description
A woman's hood of linen, 1600-25, English; blackwork in floral design, bobbin lace edging
Physical description
A linen hood embroidered with black silk thread in outline and running stitches, in a pattern of scrolling stems bearing leaves, and simple flowers. The hood is cut from two pieces of linen with three additional triangles inserted at each side and at the back. It is edged with linen bobbin lace. A modern cotton lining has been added later.
Dimensions
  • Approx. length: 45.0cm
  • Approx. width: 47.0cm
Style
Subjects depicted
Summary
This hood is an example of blackwork, a style of needlework popular in England in the late 16th and early 17th centuries. It was worked with a single colour of silk, usually black, as on this hood, but also blue, red or green on linen. Like other examples of blackwork in black silk, the embroidery threads are disintegrating. This is because iron was used as a mordant or fixative for the black dye. It eventually oxidises, causing the silk thread to crumble.

Although a few finely worked linen hoods survive in museum collections, they are very rarely seen in portraits of the late 16th and early 17th century. It is possible that they were outdoor and/or middle-class accessories and so seldom appear in Tudor and Jacobean portraiture which emphasises the formal dress of the aristocracy. So far, only one surviving brass memorial and a rubbing of a lost brass showing women wearing hoods, have been found.
Collection
Accession number
T.75-1911

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Record createdJune 24, 2009
Record URL
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