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Coat

1755 - 1765 (weaving), ca.1760 (sewing), 1870-1910 (altered)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

A man's formal day coat and waistcoat of turquoise-blue silk cut and uncut velvet, woven in a pattern of diagonal leaves with abstract floral motifs shading from tawny to red, with a voided white ground. The coat has a round neckline with a narrow stand collar. The shaped, two-piece sleeves reach to between wrist and elbow, with round cuffs (13.5 cm at top, 15.5 cm at bottom). The coat fronts curve from neck to hem with wide skirts below the hip, arranged in pleats (24 cm deep), two in front and one at the back. There is an inverted pleat on each side of the centre back opening. There is a scalloped pocket flap on each coat front at hip level. The coat is lined with white silk satin. The edges of the fronts and the back opening are interlined. There are 20 passementerie buttons, of silver-gilt strip and thread, on the right front, with 20 buttonholes, worked in turquoise-blue silk, on the left front.

The breeches are made of the silk velvet, cut in two back legs, two front legs and two waistbands. The back is higher than the front, with the fullness gathered into the waistbands. There are 6 pockets, 2 on each front with a pocket flap, two in the front of each waistband, and one in each side seam. The pockets are lined with chamois, the waistbands with linen. There is no fall front, the breeches fasten with 2 large, velvet-covered buttons on the right waistband with corresponding buttonholes on the left waistband, and 3 small, velvet covered buttons on the right front leg, with 3 buttonholes on a strip of velvet sewn to the left front leg. All 6 pockets have a small button and buttonhole. The legs fasten on the outside above the knee with 5 buttons on the back legs and 5 buttonholes on the front legs. There are buckle bands at the bottom of each leg and on the waistbands at centre back.

The suit probably once had a matching waistcoat. It was probably worn in the theatre in the 19th century. A broad facing of linen has been added to the coat fronts, with no openings for the buttonholes. There are three stamps on the lining of the back left below the neckline of the coat and on the waistband of the breeches. The breeches were probably lined with the same white silk satin, and was removed when it wore out, leaving only a remnant under the buttons of the legs and left front. The breeches were made larger by opening the centre back seam and inserting a triangle of black velvet, and the right back buckle band extended with a strip of black velvet. Two strips of coarse green linen were sewn to the waistband on either side.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 2 parts.

  • Coat
  • Breeches
Materials and techniques
Silk, linen, chamois leather, silk thread, linen thread, silver-gilt strip and thread; hand-woven velvet, satin, hand-sewn
Brief description
A man's formal day coat and breeches, c.1760, French; Turquoise-blue and red silk cut and uncut velvet, floral motifs, French, 1755-65; altered 1870-1910
Physical description
A man's formal day coat and waistcoat of turquoise-blue silk cut and uncut velvet, woven in a pattern of diagonal leaves with abstract floral motifs shading from tawny to red, with a voided white ground. The coat has a round neckline with a narrow stand collar. The shaped, two-piece sleeves reach to between wrist and elbow, with round cuffs (13.5 cm at top, 15.5 cm at bottom). The coat fronts curve from neck to hem with wide skirts below the hip, arranged in pleats (24 cm deep), two in front and one at the back. There is an inverted pleat on each side of the centre back opening. There is a scalloped pocket flap on each coat front at hip level. The coat is lined with white silk satin. The edges of the fronts and the back opening are interlined. There are 20 passementerie buttons, of silver-gilt strip and thread, on the right front, with 20 buttonholes, worked in turquoise-blue silk, on the left front.

The breeches are made of the silk velvet, cut in two back legs, two front legs and two waistbands. The back is higher than the front, with the fullness gathered into the waistbands. There are 6 pockets, 2 on each front with a pocket flap, two in the front of each waistband, and one in each side seam. The pockets are lined with chamois, the waistbands with linen. There is no fall front, the breeches fasten with 2 large, velvet-covered buttons on the right waistband with corresponding buttonholes on the left waistband, and 3 small, velvet covered buttons on the right front leg, with 3 buttonholes on a strip of velvet sewn to the left front leg. All 6 pockets have a small button and buttonhole. The legs fasten on the outside above the knee with 5 buttons on the back legs and 5 buttonholes on the front legs. There are buckle bands at the bottom of each leg and on the waistbands at centre back.

The suit probably once had a matching waistcoat. It was probably worn in the theatre in the 19th century. A broad facing of linen has been added to the coat fronts, with no openings for the buttonholes. There are three stamps on the lining of the back left below the neckline of the coat and on the waistband of the breeches. The breeches were probably lined with the same white silk satin, and was removed when it wore out, leaving only a remnant under the buttons of the legs and left front. The breeches were made larger by opening the centre back seam and inserting a triangle of black velvet, and the right back buckle band extended with a strip of black velvet. Two strips of coarse green linen were sewn to the waistband on either side.
Production typeUnique
Marks and inscriptions
  • Gaston Courtois / Ville de Paris / (16e Arrt) / 17, rue d'Auteuil (Stamped in black ink on the left back lining of the coat and the right waistband lining.)
  • A?? M?? L. Baud / Dijon / MKullenot & C.Bougenot / Successeurs /Costumes et Musique (Stamped in blue ink on the left back and left front lining of the coat and right waistband lining of the breeches.)
  • 1000022 (Stamped in black ink on the left back lining of the coat)
  • 100036 (Stamped in black ink on the right waistband lining of the breeches)
Credit line
Given by Mrs I.E. Cookes
Collection
Accession number
T.73-1957

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Record createdJune 24, 2009
Record URL
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