Embroidered waistcoats were worn as formal dress by women of the gentry and informal dress by aristocratic women. They were long-sleeved upper garments, opening down the front and fitted at the waist using inserted gores. Waistcoatswere worn with petticoats (skirts) and loose gowns over the top, accessorised with fine lace cuffs and ruffs or bands (collars). The tight-fitting sleeves and natural waistline of this example suggest a date between 1610 and 1620.

While a number of embroidered linen waistcoats survive in museum collections, this is an unusual example of one made of silk. Its embroidery pattern follows the characteristic design of this period, with scrolling stems. However the floral motifs are quite abstract, moving away from the naturalism typical in embroidery in the late 16th and early 17th centuries.

The waistcoat has been altered twice, first to reduce the fullness below the waist. The second alteration was in increase the width across the back and around the armholes, either for the original wearer or for another larger person.