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Orphrey in Two Pieces thumbnail 2
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Not currently on display at the V&A

Orphrey in Two Pieces

1340-70 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This orphrey is the only example of 14thcentury English embroidery worked on green, rather than red, velvet to have survived with its ground intact. The design consists of double interlacing bands that form barbed quatrefoils; the spaces in between are decorated with oak leaves and acorns. In the quatrefoils, enthroned figures of angels, holding crowns and the instruments of Christ’s Passion, alternate with figures of female saints – St Mary Magdalene with her jar of ointment (twice), St Catherine of Alexandria with a wheel (twice), St Margaret of Antioch with a cross staff, and an unidentified saint with a book.


Object details

Category
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 2 parts.

  • Orphrey
  • Orphrey
Materials and techniques
Embroidered with silver-gilt and silver thread and coloured silks in underside couching and split stitch, with raised work, on silk velvet with an interlayer of silk in plain weave.
Brief description
An orphrey in two pieces, embroidered with silver thread and coloured silks, 1340-70, England.
Physical description
This orphrey is the only example of 14thcentury English embroidery worked on green, rather than red, velvet to have survived with its ground intact. The design consists of double interlacing bands that form barbed quatrefoils; the spaces in between are decorated with oak leaves and acorns. In the quatrefoils, enthroned figures of angels, holding crowns and the instruments of Christ’s Passion, alternate with figures of female saints – St Mary Magdalene with her jar of ointment (twice), St Catherine of Alexandria with a wheel (twice), St Margaret of Antioch with a cross staff, and an unidentified saint with a book.
Dimensions
  • Maximum height: 29cm
  • Maximum width: 22.5cm
Content description
In the quatrefoils, enthroned figures of angels, holding crowns and the instruments of Christ’s Passion, alternate with figures of female saints – St Mary Magdalene with her jar of ointment (twice), St Catherine of Alexandria with a wheel (twice), St Margaret of Antioch with a cross staff, and an unidentified saint with a book.
Object history
Two longer pieces of an orphrey came to the Museum in 1889, together with fragments of the Jesse Cope (175-1889). The orphrey pieces were separated from the cope fragments, with which they had no original connection. These further two small pieces, clearly belonging to the orphrey, were acquired by the Museum in 1937, and attached to the longer parts.
Subjects depicted
Associated object
Bibliographic references
  • Browne, Clare; Davies, Glyn; Michael, M.A., English Medieval Embroidery: Opus Anglicanum, exhibition catalogue, London, Victoria and Albert Museum (London, 2016), pp. 238-239, cat. no. 62.
  • Clifford, Walter, ‘A Descriptive Catalogue of Some Remarkable Copes’, Proceedings of the Clifton Antiquarian Club 1 (1887–8), 229–40, cat. no. 8
  • Christie, Grace, English Medieval Embroidery: A Brief Survey of English Embroidery dating from the Beginning of the Tenth Century until the End of the Fourteenth. Oxford, 1938, cat. no. 16
  • Catalogue of English Ecclesiastical Embroideries of the XIIIth to XVIth Centuries, in the Victoria and Albert Museum, museum catalogue, London, Victoria and Albert Museum, 4th edn. London, 1930, cat. no. 99
  • King, Donald, Opus Anglicanum: English Medieval Embroidery, exhibition catalogue, London, Victoria and Albert Museum. London, 1963, cat. no. 90
Collection
Accession number
T.14&A-1937

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Record createdJune 24, 2009
Record URL
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