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Gown

1747 (weaving), 1780-85 (sewing), 1870 - 1910 (altered)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

A woman's gown of ivory silk figured in a leafy trellis design and brocaded with floral sprigs in green and shades of blue and purple. The gown is open at the front with elbow-length sleeves, shaped at the elbow. The bodice and skirt are cut separately and seamed together at the waist. The bodice meets at centre front. The bodice and sleeves are lined with pieced linen. The back is made of two pieces, with two pleats either side of the centre back seam, and tapering to a point below the centre back waist. The skirt is made of 4 widths of silk, with a partial panel either side of the front; pocket openings in the side seams. The skirt is finely flat-pleated into the waist seam, the pleats held in place with stitching 3 cm below the seam. The neckline is edged with a ruching of pinked and box-pleated silk. There are three bands of the same ruching at the bottom of the sleeve. There are two sets of tapes - one at the waist, the other half-way down the skirt - at each side on the inside for looping up the skirt.

The gown was probably re-made from an English-style gown with much piecing of the bodice and lining, and re-use of ruching.

In the late 19th century, the sleeve seam and lower part of the armhole seam were unpicked to make the sleeves narrower. Hooks were added to the left front edge of the bodice.

White cotton tape has been tacked to the centre back inside waist for Museum mounting.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Silk, linen, silk thread, linen thread; hand-woven brocade, hand-sewn, pinking
Brief description
A woman's gown, 1780-85, English; ivory figured silk brocaded with coloured floral sprigs, Spitalfields, from design 5986:2 by Anna Maria Garthwaite, 1747; altered, 1870-1910
Physical description
A woman's gown of ivory silk figured in a leafy trellis design and brocaded with floral sprigs in green and shades of blue and purple. The gown is open at the front with elbow-length sleeves, shaped at the elbow. The bodice and skirt are cut separately and seamed together at the waist. The bodice meets at centre front. The bodice and sleeves are lined with pieced linen. The back is made of two pieces, with two pleats either side of the centre back seam, and tapering to a point below the centre back waist. The skirt is made of 4 widths of silk, with a partial panel either side of the front; pocket openings in the side seams. The skirt is finely flat-pleated into the waist seam, the pleats held in place with stitching 3 cm below the seam. The neckline is edged with a ruching of pinked and box-pleated silk. There are three bands of the same ruching at the bottom of the sleeve. There are two sets of tapes - one at the waist, the other half-way down the skirt - at each side on the inside for looping up the skirt.

The gown was probably re-made from an English-style gown with much piecing of the bodice and lining, and re-use of ruching.

In the late 19th century, the sleeve seam and lower part of the armhole seam were unpicked to make the sleeves narrower. Hooks were added to the left front edge of the bodice.

White cotton tape has been tacked to the centre back inside waist for Museum mounting.
Dimensions
  • Shoulder to hem at centre back length: 139.0cm (approx)
  • Bust under armholes circumference: 80.5cm (approx)
  • Silk, selvedge to selvedge width: 53.2cm
Production typeUnique
Credit line
Given by Messrs. Harrods
Object history
Given to the V&A in 1913 with many other items of historic dress (T.705-713-1913) which had come from the collection of the painter Talbot Hughes (1869-1942).
Bibliographic reference
British Textile Design in the Victoria and Albert Museum, ed. Donald King, Tokyo, 1980, Vol. I, colour plate 202. Exhibited in 'Flowered Silks,' V&A, 1990.
Collection
Accession number
T.706-1913

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Record createdJune 24, 2009
Record URL
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