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Suit

  • Place of origin:

    England (possibly, made)
    France (possibly, made)

  • Date:

    1790-1799 (made)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Unknown

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Silk, linen; hand-woven, hand-embroidered, hand-sewn

  • Museum number:

    653&A, B-1898

  • Gallery location:

    In Storage

Physical description

A man's court coat, waistcoat and breeches; the coat of silk taffeta, narrowly striped in purple and white, with a 3-inch (7.5 cm) standing collar, 2-piece sleeves ending in cuffs, 4½ inches (11.4 cm) deep. The fronts curve sharply from neck to hem with pleats 1¾ inches (4.4 cm) deep, below the hip set beside the centre back. Each front has a pocket and shaped pocket flap; the centre-back seam is open below the hip. The coat, sleeves and pocket flaps are lined with white silk twill, the pockets with bleached linen. The coat is appliquéd with green silk and white net in a wave pattern and embroidered-to-shape with silk floss in shades of pink, green and white in a pattern of roses and pansies, on the collar, cuffs and pocket flaps, around the front neck and pockets, along the fronts and centre-back opening. There are 9 embroidered buttons along the right front, 3 on each cuff, 3 below each pocket, 1 at the top and hem of the pleats.

The waistcoat fronts are made of ivory taffeta with a 2¼ inch standing collar, curving fronts and skirts reaching to the top of the thigh. Each front has a pocket and shaped pocket flap. The back is made of fustian and the waistcoat lined with the same. The fronts are faced, front skirts and pocket flaps lined with white silk twill. The waistcoat is decorated in the same pattern, but different colours as the coat, appliquéd with green silk and white net in a wave pattern and embroidered-to-shape with silk floss in shades of pink, green, yellow, terracotta, blue, purple and white in a pattern of roses and pansies, on the front collars and pocket flaps, along the front edges and hems. The fronts are filled with repeating embroidered abstract floral sprigs and feathers. There are 8 worked buttonholes along the left front and 10 embroidered buttons along the right front edge; the top 2 have no corresponding buttonhole.

The breeches comprise 2 fronts, two backs and 2 waistbands, made of the silk taffeta, narrowly striped in purple and white. The back legs are cut higher than the fronts and gathered into the back of the waistbands. There is a watch pocket in the right front waistband. The breeches close with buttoned front waistbands and a fall front; the back waistbands with 2 pairs of eyelet holes. The waistbands and pockets are lined with linen; the fall front with white silk twill. The legs are unlined. Two self-covered buttons fasten each corner of the fall front; there are 5 worked buttonholes and 5 embroidered buttons on the outside of each leg above the knee. The knee bands are appliquéd with green silk and white net, and embroidered in white.

The ensemble has minor alterations, possibly for fancy dress. The buttonholes for the 3rd and 4th buttons on the coat were added; 3 buttons from the front waistband were detached and sewn to the waistband with another, probably for braces, and linen tape ties sewn to the back of the waistcoat.

Place of Origin

England (possibly, made)
France (possibly, made)

Date

1790-1799 (made)

Artist/maker

Unknown

Materials and Techniques

Silk, linen; hand-woven, hand-embroidered, hand-sewn

Descriptive line

Man's court coat waistcoat and breeches, English or French, 1790-99; purple and white ribbed silk, embroidered

Materials

Silk (textile); Linen (material); Silk thread

Techniques

Hand weaving; Hand embroidery; Hand sewing

Categories

Court; Men's clothes; Embroidery

Collection

Textiles and Fashion Collection

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