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Breast ornament

Breast ornament

  • Place of origin:

    France (possibly, made)

  • Date:

    ca. 1620-1630 (made)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Unknown (production)

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Enamelled gold, set with 208 table-cut and triangular point-cut diamonds

  • Credit Line:

    Given by Dame Joan Evans

  • Museum number:

    M.143-1975

  • Gallery location:

    Jewellery, room 91, case 52, shelf C, box 1

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From 1620 to 1640 fashionable women in western Europe wore a single large jewel on their bodice. This particular jewel has neither a pin nor loop fastening. It would simply have been stitched to the fabric of the gown.

The swirling botanical design is characteristic of the cosse de pois (pea pod) style. This originated in France, where ornamental designs were published featuring highly stylised arrangements of leaves, stems and buds. Balthasar Lemercier and Jacques Caillart of Paris and Peter Symony of Strasbourg made designs for goldsmiths' work in this style. The style’s popularity peaked in the 1620s and 1630s. However the taste for botanical motifs continued to evolve through the century.

Physical description

An imposing ornament of diamonds set in enamelled gold openwork, with five pendants hanging from the lower edge. The design is of botanical inspiration with curling foliage around a central rosette. It is constructed in three stages: the back plate enamelled in black; a front plate set with diamonds and enamelled in white and black; and the central diamond-set rosette.

Place of Origin

France (possibly, made)

Date

ca. 1620-1630 (made)

Artist/maker

Unknown (production)

Materials and Techniques

Enamelled gold, set with 208 table-cut and triangular point-cut diamonds

Dimensions

Height: 12.4 cm including pendants, Width: 7.4 cm

Object history note

Grand Palais Exhibition RF.2001/297
Natural History Museum Exhibiton RF.2005/164

Historical context note

Rubens' portrait of his second wife Hélène Fourment (Alte Pinakothek, Munich) shows her wearing a similar ornament.

Descriptive line

Breast ornament, enamelled gold set with diamonds, probably France, about 1620-30.

Exhibition History

Diamonds (Natural History Museum, London 09/07/2005-26/02/2006)
Arts décoratifs sous Louis XIII (Grand Palais 09/04/2002-08/07/2002)

Production Note

Dutch

Materials

Gold; Enamel; Diamond

Categories

Jewellery

Collection code

MET

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Qr_O33884
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