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Not currently on display at the V&A

Shift

1800-1820 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This is an example of a woman’s chemise made in the early 19th century. It was usually made of linen and was the item of underwear worn next to the skin, underneath the body-shaping stays. The short, ungathered sleeve and wide, shallow, ungathered neckline correspond to women’s fashions of the first two decades of the 19th century. It is a development of the 18th century shift which was similar in style and materials. By the early 19th century, however, the word ‘shift’ was considered vulgar, so the equivalent French term, ‘chemise’ was adopted. A decorative ruffle of muslin or lace edging would have been sewn around the narrow band of linen at the neckline.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Linen, linen thread and silk thread; hand sewn.
Brief description
Shift, F, British, 1800-1820, linen
Physical description
A woman's shift of linen, with a 3/4 inch band around the neckline and short, ungathered sleeves. The shift is cut in one piece with diagonal shaping at the sides. The sleeves are of a slightly coarser weave than the body. There are three groups of three tiny buttonhole stitches embroidered in pink silk thread at the centre front edge of the neck band.
Dimensions
  • Neck to hem length: 132.0cm (overall)
  • Across the sleeves width: 96.5cm (overall)
Object history
When acquired, the shift was thought to have belonged to Mary of Modena. The cut and style of the shift indicate that it dates from the early 19th century.
Summary
This is an example of a woman’s chemise made in the early 19th century. It was usually made of linen and was the item of underwear worn next to the skin, underneath the body-shaping stays. The short, ungathered sleeve and wide, shallow, ungathered neckline correspond to women’s fashions of the first two decades of the 19th century. It is a development of the 18th century shift which was similar in style and materials. By the early 19th century, however, the word ‘shift’ was considered vulgar, so the equivalent French term, ‘chemise’ was adopted. A decorative ruffle of muslin or lace edging would have been sewn around the narrow band of linen at the neckline.
Associated object
Collection
Accession number
T.467:1-1997

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Record createdJune 24, 2009
Record URL
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