Pendant and Chains
1850-1899 (made)
Artist/Maker | |
Place of origin |
The most characteristic element of Swiss traditional jewellery is the lavish use of chains and filigree. All the parts of this piece are typical of Swiss filigree jewellery, but they are unlikely ever to have been worn together like this in Switzerland. They were probably put together as a souvenir for British tourists, who loved traditional jewellery of all kinds, in the late 19th century.
The two chains, with decorative hooks at the ends, and the pendant rosette were probably originally part of a Göllerkette. Göllerketten, meaning collar chains, are unique to Switzerland and parts of southern Germany. Originally Swiss women used laces to hold their white linen collars in place, but by the 19th century they had switched to silver chains. They wore them in pairs, one on each side of the body. These chains linked the lower outside corners of the collar, at the front and back, by passing under the arm. At each end there was a decorative filigree hook, which was attached to the corners of the collar. The piece was usually finished with a large decorative filigree rosette, which hung down as a pendant from the front hook, with a small pendant heart, matching those at the ends of the chain, hanging from its lower edge.
The rosette of this piece has had four extra pendants, shaped like blue-bell flowers, added along its lower edge, instead of its original single heart. These may have come from Wurttemberg, in south-west Germany. The tulip-shaped plaque at the top of the rosette is also probably added. The large heart-shaped filigree plaque in the centre of the chain must have originally been a belt hook, holding apron chains and pendants.
The two chains, with decorative hooks at the ends, and the pendant rosette were probably originally part of a Göllerkette. Göllerketten, meaning collar chains, are unique to Switzerland and parts of southern Germany. Originally Swiss women used laces to hold their white linen collars in place, but by the 19th century they had switched to silver chains. They wore them in pairs, one on each side of the body. These chains linked the lower outside corners of the collar, at the front and back, by passing under the arm. At each end there was a decorative filigree hook, which was attached to the corners of the collar. The piece was usually finished with a large decorative filigree rosette, which hung down as a pendant from the front hook, with a small pendant heart, matching those at the ends of the chain, hanging from its lower edge.
The rosette of this piece has had four extra pendants, shaped like blue-bell flowers, added along its lower edge, instead of its original single heart. These may have come from Wurttemberg, in south-west Germany. The tulip-shaped plaque at the top of the rosette is also probably added. The large heart-shaped filigree plaque in the centre of the chain must have originally been a belt hook, holding apron chains and pendants.
Object details
Categories | |
Object type | |
Parts | This object consists of 2 parts.
|
Materials and techniques | Silver filigree |
Brief description | Silver filigree pendant and chains, Switzerland, 1850-1899. |
Physical description | Belt-hook with heart-shaped filigree plaque on its front. Two chains of figure-of-eight links are attached to the point at the tip of the heart, each with a small filigree heart at its end, with a hook on the back. A large open filigree rosette pendant hangs from the tip of the heart, by means of a tulip-shaped filigree plaque. There are four more bell-shaped filigree pendants hanging from the lower edge of the rosette, one at each side, and two arranged vertically in the centre. |
Credit line | Jane Souter Hipkins Bequest |
Summary | The most characteristic element of Swiss traditional jewellery is the lavish use of chains and filigree. All the parts of this piece are typical of Swiss filigree jewellery, but they are unlikely ever to have been worn together like this in Switzerland. They were probably put together as a souvenir for British tourists, who loved traditional jewellery of all kinds, in the late 19th century. The two chains, with decorative hooks at the ends, and the pendant rosette were probably originally part of a Göllerkette. Göllerketten, meaning collar chains, are unique to Switzerland and parts of southern Germany. Originally Swiss women used laces to hold their white linen collars in place, but by the 19th century they had switched to silver chains. They wore them in pairs, one on each side of the body. These chains linked the lower outside corners of the collar, at the front and back, by passing under the arm. At each end there was a decorative filigree hook, which was attached to the corners of the collar. The piece was usually finished with a large decorative filigree rosette, which hung down as a pendant from the front hook, with a small pendant heart, matching those at the ends of the chain, hanging from its lower edge. The rosette of this piece has had four extra pendants, shaped like blue-bell flowers, added along its lower edge, instead of its original single heart. These may have come from Wurttemberg, in south-west Germany. The tulip-shaped plaque at the top of the rosette is also probably added. The large heart-shaped filigree plaque in the centre of the chain must have originally been a belt hook, holding apron chains and pendants. |
Collection | |
Accession number | M.427&PART-1911 |
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Record created | June 24, 2009 |
Record URL |
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