Head Ornament thumbnail 1
Not currently on display at the V&A

Head Ornament

1850-1899 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Bulgarian traditional costume is a mix of western European and Ottoman influences, and the jewellery shares the same heritage. This piece of jewellery, called a prochelnik because it was worn on the forehead, is a head ornament. The central part was hooked into the head scarf, so that the decorative part hung down over the forehead, while the two hooks at the sides were attached to the scarf at the sides of the head, above and behind the ears. It is made of metal, cast and plated to imitate more expensive silver filigree jewellery. In the 19th century the rural populations of the Balkans were much poorer than their equivalents in other European countries, and many could not afford jewellery of precious metal.

Like most traditional jewellery in the region, it was first worn at marriage. The contents of the dowry varied according to the wealth of the families involved, and from place to place, but a belt clasp and a prochelnik were compulsory pieces everywhere. This prochelnik is filled with symbolic meaning. The four birds above the central part represent cocks, an ancient symbol of fertility, and the dangling disc pendants were intended to avert all kinds of evil. It is typical of the Sliven region.

This was described as a Norwegian breast ornament when it was given to the Museum in 1939, along with many other pieces of Norwegian traditional jewellery. The disc-shaped pendants and coloured glass pastes are superficially similar to Norwegian jewellery, but the details are quite different. Scandinavian disc pendants are attached through a hole in the disc, not by a projecting loop, as here.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Silver-plated copper set with red and green facetted pastes
Brief description
Silver-plated head ornament (prochelnik) with numerous chains, Bulgaria, 1850-1899.
Physical description
A complex head ornament, consisting of three hooked elements linked by rows of chain. In the centre are three plaques arranged vertically. The upper one is a cast drop-shaped plaque with imitation filigree decoration, with a hook on its back. It is hinged to a pierced semicircular plaque, also cast with imitation filigree decoration, set with a facetted red paste in the centre. The top edge consists of four stylised birds. This plaque is attached to the lowest by three rings (one missing). The lowest plaque is a rounded rectangle, cast in imitation of filigree, and set with three facetted pastes, two red and one green. There are 14 loop-in-loop chains hanging from the lower edge, each with a flat round disc of sheet silver hanging from each end. Four more loop-in-loop chains are attached to each side of these central plaques. They are of varying lengths, so that they hang down in swags when worn. Each is decorated along its lower edge with more disc pendants. The four chains on each side end in a plain ring, which is attached to a small cast plaque, with a hook on its back.
Dimensions
  • Top chain length: 400mm
  • Height: 175mm
  • Depth: 8mm
Credit line
Gift of Mrs A. E. Gunter
Subject depicted
Summary
Bulgarian traditional costume is a mix of western European and Ottoman influences, and the jewellery shares the same heritage. This piece of jewellery, called a prochelnik because it was worn on the forehead, is a head ornament. The central part was hooked into the head scarf, so that the decorative part hung down over the forehead, while the two hooks at the sides were attached to the scarf at the sides of the head, above and behind the ears. It is made of metal, cast and plated to imitate more expensive silver filigree jewellery. In the 19th century the rural populations of the Balkans were much poorer than their equivalents in other European countries, and many could not afford jewellery of precious metal.

Like most traditional jewellery in the region, it was first worn at marriage. The contents of the dowry varied according to the wealth of the families involved, and from place to place, but a belt clasp and a prochelnik were compulsory pieces everywhere. This prochelnik is filled with symbolic meaning. The four birds above the central part represent cocks, an ancient symbol of fertility, and the dangling disc pendants were intended to avert all kinds of evil. It is typical of the Sliven region.

This was described as a Norwegian breast ornament when it was given to the Museum in 1939, along with many other pieces of Norwegian traditional jewellery. The disc-shaped pendants and coloured glass pastes are superficially similar to Norwegian jewellery, but the details are quite different. Scandinavian disc pendants are attached through a hole in the disc, not by a projecting loop, as here.
Collection
Accession number
M.52-1939

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Record createdJune 24, 2009
Record URL
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