Pendant and Chain thumbnail 1
Pendant and Chain thumbnail 2
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Pendant and Chain

1800-1870 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

The most characteristic element of Swiss traditional jewellery is the lavish use of chains and filigree.

Göllerketten, meaning collar chains, are among the most unusual kind. Originally Swiss women used laces to hold their detachable white linen collars in place, but by the 19th century they had switched to silver chains. They wore them in pairs, one on each side of the body. These chains linked the lower outside corners of the collar, at the front and back, by passing under the arm. At each end there was a decorative filigree hook, which was attached to the corners of the collar. The hook at the front usually had an elaborate filigree rosette hanging down from it. In this example the front hook is missing, and only the pendant rosette remains at the front.

Göllerketten are unique to Switzerland and parts of southern Germany, and were worn in most regions, although the design varied from valley to valley. This Göllerkette was described as 18th-century Bernese when it was acquired by the museum in 1870. The Bernese costume had been adopted as an unofficial Swiss national costume in the second half of the 19th century, and was very popular in the UK at that time for dressing-up. Large quantities of Bernese-style chains and filigree were imported into the UK from around 1875. Despite that, this chain is more characteristic of the kind worn in the neighbouring canton of Nidwalden.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 2 parts.

  • Chain
  • Chain
Materials and techniques
Silver filigree and chain
Brief description
Silver filigree pendant and chain (Göllerkette), Berne (Switzerland), 1800-1870.
Physical description
Large open filigree pendent rosette, with an added rosette on each side in the centre. There is a small filigree pendant, shaped like an inverted heart, hanging from the centre of the lower edge. Opposite it, at the top of the pendant, a chain is attached, which has a similar heart attached to its other end, with a hook on its back.
Dimensions
  • Chain length: 80.5cm
  • Chain width: 2.5cm
  • Chain depth: 0.9cm
  • Pendant length: 9.1cm
  • Pendant width: 7.5cm
  • Pendant depth: 1.0cm
Subjects depicted
Summary
The most characteristic element of Swiss traditional jewellery is the lavish use of chains and filigree.

Göllerketten, meaning collar chains, are among the most unusual kind. Originally Swiss women used laces to hold their detachable white linen collars in place, but by the 19th century they had switched to silver chains. They wore them in pairs, one on each side of the body. These chains linked the lower outside corners of the collar, at the front and back, by passing under the arm. At each end there was a decorative filigree hook, which was attached to the corners of the collar. The hook at the front usually had an elaborate filigree rosette hanging down from it. In this example the front hook is missing, and only the pendant rosette remains at the front.

Göllerketten are unique to Switzerland and parts of southern Germany, and were worn in most regions, although the design varied from valley to valley. This Göllerkette was described as 18th-century Bernese when it was acquired by the museum in 1870. The Bernese costume had been adopted as an unofficial Swiss national costume in the second half of the 19th century, and was very popular in the UK at that time for dressing-up. Large quantities of Bernese-style chains and filigree were imported into the UK from around 1875. Despite that, this chain is more characteristic of the kind worn in the neighbouring canton of Nidwalden.
Collection
Accession number
177-1870

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Record createdJune 24, 2009
Record URL
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