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Coat and Waistcoat

1785-90 (made), 1870-1895 (altered)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

A man’s court coat and waistcoat; the coat of brown wool, self-striped with satin and plain weave with a 2⅜-inch (6 cm) standing collar and curving, 2-piece sleeves ending in cuffs. The fronts curve from neck to hem, with pleats below the hip set beside the centre back. Each front has a pocket and shaped pocket flap; the centre-back seam is open below the hip. The coat and pocket flaps are lined with ivory silk twill, the sleeves with bleached linen, the pockets with fustian. The coat is embroidered-to-shape with pastes and silk floss in shades of green, pink, blue, yellow and white in a pattern of large flowers, on the collars, cuffs and pocket flaps, around the neckline and pockets and along the fronts, side pleats and centre-back opening. There are 9 embroidered buttons on the right front, 3 on each cuff, 3 below each pocket and 1 at the top of the pleats and 1 half-way down.

The waistcoat fronts are made of ivory silk satin, the backs of fustian. The waistcoat has a 2¼ inch (5.4 cm) standing collar, curving fronts and skirts reaching to the top of the thigh. Each front has a pocket and pocket flap. The waistcoat is lined with fustian; the fronts faced and skirts lined with ivory satin. It is embroidered to-shape with pastes and silk floss in shades of green, pink, blue, yellow and white in a pattern of large flowers, on the front collars and pocket flaps, and along the front edges and hems. The fronts are embroidered with a repeating design of abstract floral sprigs and feathers. There are 13 worked buttonholes along the left front; the top 3 uncut. There are 12 embroidered buttons on the right front.

The coat and waistcoat were altered in the late 19th century, probably for fancy dress. The cuffs were lengthened and the pleats rearranged and stitched down. Padding was added to the upper chest, between the striped wool and lining, and the lining patched. Two worked buttonholes were added to the left front . A ‘V’ of linen was inserted in the centre-back seam of the waistcoat.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 2 parts.

  • Coat
  • Waistcoat
Materials and techniques
Wool, silk, linen, cotton, glass; hand-woven, hand-embroidered, hand-sewn.
Brief description
Man's court coat and waistcoat, 1785-90, English; striped brown wool, embroidered, pastes, altered 1870-1895
Physical description
A man’s court coat and waistcoat; the coat of brown wool, self-striped with satin and plain weave with a 2⅜-inch (6 cm) standing collar and curving, 2-piece sleeves ending in cuffs. The fronts curve from neck to hem, with pleats below the hip set beside the centre back. Each front has a pocket and shaped pocket flap; the centre-back seam is open below the hip. The coat and pocket flaps are lined with ivory silk twill, the sleeves with bleached linen, the pockets with fustian. The coat is embroidered-to-shape with pastes and silk floss in shades of green, pink, blue, yellow and white in a pattern of large flowers, on the collars, cuffs and pocket flaps, around the neckline and pockets and along the fronts, side pleats and centre-back opening. There are 9 embroidered buttons on the right front, 3 on each cuff, 3 below each pocket and 1 at the top of the pleats and 1 half-way down.

The waistcoat fronts are made of ivory silk satin, the backs of fustian. The waistcoat has a 2¼ inch (5.4 cm) standing collar, curving fronts and skirts reaching to the top of the thigh. Each front has a pocket and pocket flap. The waistcoat is lined with fustian; the fronts faced and skirts lined with ivory satin. It is embroidered to-shape with pastes and silk floss in shades of green, pink, blue, yellow and white in a pattern of large flowers, on the front collars and pocket flaps, and along the front edges and hems. The fronts are embroidered with a repeating design of abstract floral sprigs and feathers. There are 13 worked buttonholes along the left front; the top 3 uncut. There are 12 embroidered buttons on the right front.

The coat and waistcoat were altered in the late 19th century, probably for fancy dress. The cuffs were lengthened and the pleats rearranged and stitched down. Padding was added to the upper chest, between the striped wool and lining, and the lining patched. Two worked buttonholes were added to the left front . A ‘V’ of linen was inserted in the centre-back seam of the waistcoat.
Collection
Accession number
440-1899

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Record createdJune 24, 2009
Record URL
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