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Coat and Waistcoat

1795-1800 (made), 1870-1910 (altered)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

A man’s court coat and waistcoat. The coat is brown woollen broadcloth with a 3-inch (7.5 cm) standing collar, 2-piece sleeves ending in cuffs 4⅛ inches (10.4 cm) deep. The fronts are cut away at the waist, with pleats below the hip set beside the centre back. Each front has a pocket with a shaped pocket flap; the centre-back seam is open below the hip. The coat is embroidered-to-shape with silver-gilt thread, strip, purl and spangles, and glass pastes in a pattern of large pine cones and peacock feathers, on the collar, cuffs and pocket flaps, around the pockets, along the fronts, side pleats and centre-back opening. There are 4 worked buttonholes along the left front and 4 corresponding embroidered buttons along the right front, 3 on each cuff and 1 below each pocket.

The waistcoat fronts are made of cream silk twill with a 2½ inch (6.3 cm) standing collar and skirts reaching to the hip. There are no pockets, only a shaped pocket flap on each front. The back is made of cream silk twill ; the waistcoat fronts and pocket flaps lined with cream silk twill. The waistcoat is embroidered-to-shape with silver-gilt thread, strip, purl and spangles, and glass pastes in a pattern of large pine cones and peacock feathers,on the front collars and pocket flaps, along the front edges and hems. There are 6 worked buttonholes along the left front and 6 corresponding embroidered buttons along the right front edge.

The coat was altered in the late 19th century, probably for fancy dress. The pleats were rearranged and the coat lining patched and replaced in areas. The back of the waistcoat was relined and linen tape ties were added.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 2 parts.

  • Coat
  • Waistcoat
Materials and techniques
Silk, wool, linen, silver-gilt; hand-woven, hand-embroidered, hand-sewn.
Brief description
A man's court coat and waistcoat, 1795-1800, English; brown broadcloth embroidered with silver-gilt thread, altered 1870-1910
Physical description
A man’s court coat and waistcoat. The coat is brown woollen broadcloth with a 3-inch (7.5 cm) standing collar, 2-piece sleeves ending in cuffs 4⅛ inches (10.4 cm) deep. The fronts are cut away at the waist, with pleats below the hip set beside the centre back. Each front has a pocket with a shaped pocket flap; the centre-back seam is open below the hip. The coat is embroidered-to-shape with silver-gilt thread, strip, purl and spangles, and glass pastes in a pattern of large pine cones and peacock feathers, on the collar, cuffs and pocket flaps, around the pockets, along the fronts, side pleats and centre-back opening. There are 4 worked buttonholes along the left front and 4 corresponding embroidered buttons along the right front, 3 on each cuff and 1 below each pocket.

The waistcoat fronts are made of cream silk twill with a 2½ inch (6.3 cm) standing collar and skirts reaching to the hip. There are no pockets, only a shaped pocket flap on each front. The back is made of cream silk twill ; the waistcoat fronts and pocket flaps lined with cream silk twill. The waistcoat is embroidered-to-shape with silver-gilt thread, strip, purl and spangles, and glass pastes in a pattern of large pine cones and peacock feathers,on the front collars and pocket flaps, along the front edges and hems. There are 6 worked buttonholes along the left front and 6 corresponding embroidered buttons along the right front edge.

The coat was altered in the late 19th century, probably for fancy dress. The pleats were rearranged and the coat lining patched and replaced in areas. The back of the waistcoat was relined and linen tape ties were added.
Collection
Accession number
T.563-1919

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Record createdJune 24, 2009
Record URL
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