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Coat and waistcoat

  • Place of origin:

    England (made)

  • Date:

    1795-1800 (made)
    1870-1910 (altered)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Unknown

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Silk, wool, linen, silver-gilt; hand-woven, hand-embroidered, hand-sewn.

  • Museum number:

    T.563-1919

  • Gallery location:

    In Storage

Physical description

A man’s court coat and waistcoat. The coat is brown woollen broadcloth with a 3-inch (7.5 cm) standing collar, 2-piece sleeves ending in cuffs 4⅛ inches (10.4 cm) deep. The fronts are cut away at the waist, with pleats below the hip set beside the centre back. Each front has a pocket with a shaped pocket flap; the centre-back seam is open below the hip. The coat is embroidered-to-shape with silver-gilt thread, strip, purl and spangles, and glass pastes in a pattern of large pine cones and peacock feathers, on the collar, cuffs and pocket flaps, around the pockets, along the fronts, side pleats and centre-back opening. There are 4 worked buttonholes along the left front and 4 corresponding embroidered buttons along the right front, 3 on each cuff and 1 below each pocket.

The waistcoat fronts are made of cream silk twill with a 2½ inch (6.3 cm) standing collar and skirts reaching to the hip. There are no pockets, only a shaped pocket flap on each front. The back is made of cream silk twill ; the waistcoat fronts and pocket flaps lined with cream silk twill. The waistcoat is embroidered-to-shape with silver-gilt thread, strip, purl and spangles, and glass pastes in a pattern of large pine cones and peacock feathers,on the front collars and pocket flaps, along the front edges and hems. There are 6 worked buttonholes along the left front and 6 corresponding embroidered buttons along the right front edge.

The coat was altered in the late 19th century, probably for fancy dress. The pleats were rearranged and the coat lining patched and replaced in areas. The back of the waistcoat was relined and linen tape ties were added.

Place of Origin

England (made)

Date

1795-1800 (made)
1870-1910 (altered)

Artist/maker

Unknown

Materials and Techniques

Silk, wool, linen, silver-gilt; hand-woven, hand-embroidered, hand-sewn.

Descriptive line

A man's court coat and waistcoat, 1795-1800, English; brown broadcloth embroidered with silver-gilt thread, altered 1870-1910

Materials

Wool (textile); Silk (textile); Silver gilt

Techniques

Hand weaving; Fulling; Hand embroidery; Hand sewing

Categories

Men's clothes; Court; Embroidery

Collection

Textiles and Fashion Collection

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