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Coat

ca. 1790 (made), 1870-1910 (altered)
Artist/Maker
Place Of Origin

A man’s court coat of brown silk with narrow stripes of uncut and voided velvet. The coat has a 2⅝-inch (6.7 cm) standing collar, 2-piece sleeves ending in cuffs. The fronts curve from neck to hem with pleats 2¼ inches (5.6 cm) deep, below the hip set beside the centre back. There is only a shaped pocket flap on each front; the pockets are set in the front linings. The centre-back seam is open below the hip. The back, sleeves and pockets are lined with linen, the fronts, skirts and pocket flaps are lined with black silk twill. The coat is embroidered-to-shape with silver-gilt thread and spangles in a pattern of large flowers and pomegranates, on the collar, cuffs and pocket flaps, around the pockets, along the fronts and centre-back opening. There are 8 embroidered buttons along the right front, 3 below each pocket, and 1 and the top and hem of the pleats.

The coat was altered in the late 19th century, probably for fancy dress. The cuffs were shortened to lengthen the sleeves and buttons removed and resewn, leaving only 2 on each cuff. The pleats were rearranged.


object details
Categories
Object Type
Materials and Techniques
Silk, linen, silver-gilt; hand-woven, velvet weave, hand-embroidered, hand-sewn.
Brief Description
Man's court coat, c.1790, Italian; Striped brown velvet, silver-gilt embroidery, altered 1870-1910
Physical Description
A man’s court coat of brown silk with narrow stripes of uncut and voided velvet. The coat has a 2⅝-inch (6.7 cm) standing collar, 2-piece sleeves ending in cuffs. The fronts curve from neck to hem with pleats 2¼ inches (5.6 cm) deep, below the hip set beside the centre back. There is only a shaped pocket flap on each front; the pockets are set in the front linings. The centre-back seam is open below the hip. The back, sleeves and pockets are lined with linen, the fronts, skirts and pocket flaps are lined with black silk twill. The coat is embroidered-to-shape with silver-gilt thread and spangles in a pattern of large flowers and pomegranates, on the collar, cuffs and pocket flaps, around the pockets, along the fronts and centre-back opening. There are 8 embroidered buttons along the right front, 3 below each pocket, and 1 and the top and hem of the pleats.



The coat was altered in the late 19th century, probably for fancy dress. The cuffs were shortened to lengthen the sleeves and buttons removed and resewn, leaving only 2 on each cuff. The pleats were rearranged.

Dimensions
  • Top of right collar to hem length: 118.0cm (approx)
  • Chest under armholes circumference: 114.0cm (approx)
Credit line
Given by Madame Elsa Borgo-Baer, in memory of Cesare Borgo
Collection
Accession Number
T.9-1972

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record createdJune 24, 2009
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