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Suit

1788-93 (made), 1870-1885 (altered)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Man’s court coat, waistcoat and breeches; the coat is made of purple silk velvet, uncut and voided in a chequered pattern. It has a 2⅝-inch (6.7 cm) standing collar, curving 2-piece sleeves that end in cuffs, 3¾ inches (9.4 cm) deep. The fronts curve from neck to hem, with pleats below the hip, beside the centre-back opening. Each front has a pocket and pointed pocket flap. The sleeves and pocket flaps are lined with white silk taffeta, the pockets with bleached linen. The coat is embroidered to shape with silk floss in white, blue and shades of pink and green, in a pattern of flowers and elongated leaves with a net border, on the collar, cuffs and pocket flaps, around the pockets, along the front edges and hems, side pleats and centre-back opening. There are 10 embroidered buttons on the right front edge, 3 below each pocket and 2 on each cuff (1 missing on right cuff). The fronts fasten with a hook & eye at mid-chest.

The waistcoat fronts and back are made of ivory silk woven in a chequered pattern, with a round neckline, curving fronts and skirts reaching to the top of the thigh. The back and pockets are lined with bleached linen; the skirt and pocket flap linings and front facings are white silk taffeta. The waistcoat is embroidered-to-shape with silk floss in white, mauve and shades of green and pink, in a pattern of flowers and elongated leaves on the pocket flaps, around the front neck and along the front edges and hems. There are 12 worked buttonholes along the left front and 12 corresponding embroidered buttons on the right front and 3 below each pocket.

The breeches comprise 2 fronts, two backs and 2 waistbands of the purple silk velvet, uncut and voided in a chequered pattern. The back legs are cut higher than the fronts and gathered into the back waistbands. There is a watch pocket in each front waistband. The breeches close with buttoned front waistbands, a fall front and a buckle band (1 side missing) at the back. The waistbands, legs, pockets and fall front are lined with bleached linen. Two self-covered buttons fasten the fall front. There are 5 worked buttonholes and 4 embroidered buttons on the outside of each leg above the knee. The knee bands are embroidered with white, pink and green silk floss.

The ensemble was altered in the 19th century, probably for theatre costume. The pleats of the coat were rearranged and the fronts and back relined. The waistcoat fronts were relined and the centre-back seam unpicked, the edges hemmed and 14 eyelets stitched on the right side of the back and 15 on the left side. The four buttons fastening the breeches front waistbands were replaced and buttons added to the top of the front waistbands and buttonholes at the back waistband, probably for suspenders/braces.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 4 parts.

  • Coat
  • Waistcoat Part
  • Waistcoat Part
  • Breeches
Materials and techniques
Silk, linen; hand-woven, velvet weave, hand-embroidered, hand-sewn
Brief description
Man's court coat, waistcoat and breeches, 1788-93, English or French;purple silk velvet/ivory figures silk, embroidered, altered 1870-85
Physical description
Man’s court coat, waistcoat and breeches; the coat is made of purple silk velvet, uncut and voided in a chequered pattern. It has a 2⅝-inch (6.7 cm) standing collar, curving 2-piece sleeves that end in cuffs, 3¾ inches (9.4 cm) deep. The fronts curve from neck to hem, with pleats below the hip, beside the centre-back opening. Each front has a pocket and pointed pocket flap. The sleeves and pocket flaps are lined with white silk taffeta, the pockets with bleached linen. The coat is embroidered to shape with silk floss in white, blue and shades of pink and green, in a pattern of flowers and elongated leaves with a net border, on the collar, cuffs and pocket flaps, around the pockets, along the front edges and hems, side pleats and centre-back opening. There are 10 embroidered buttons on the right front edge, 3 below each pocket and 2 on each cuff (1 missing on right cuff). The fronts fasten with a hook & eye at mid-chest.

The waistcoat fronts and back are made of ivory silk woven in a chequered pattern, with a round neckline, curving fronts and skirts reaching to the top of the thigh. The back and pockets are lined with bleached linen; the skirt and pocket flap linings and front facings are white silk taffeta. The waistcoat is embroidered-to-shape with silk floss in white, mauve and shades of green and pink, in a pattern of flowers and elongated leaves on the pocket flaps, around the front neck and along the front edges and hems. There are 12 worked buttonholes along the left front and 12 corresponding embroidered buttons on the right front and 3 below each pocket.

The breeches comprise 2 fronts, two backs and 2 waistbands of the purple silk velvet, uncut and voided in a chequered pattern. The back legs are cut higher than the fronts and gathered into the back waistbands. There is a watch pocket in each front waistband. The breeches close with buttoned front waistbands, a fall front and a buckle band (1 side missing) at the back. The waistbands, legs, pockets and fall front are lined with bleached linen. Two self-covered buttons fasten the fall front. There are 5 worked buttonholes and 4 embroidered buttons on the outside of each leg above the knee. The knee bands are embroidered with white, pink and green silk floss.

The ensemble was altered in the 19th century, probably for theatre costume. The pleats of the coat were rearranged and the fronts and back relined. The waistcoat fronts were relined and the centre-back seam unpicked, the edges hemmed and 14 eyelets stitched on the right side of the back and 15 on the left side. The four buttons fastening the breeches front waistbands were replaced and buttons added to the top of the front waistbands and buttonholes at the back waistband, probably for suspenders/braces.
Dimensions
  • Coat, right shoulder to hem length: 124.0cm (approx)
  • Coat chest under armholes circumference: 105.0cm (approx)
  • Waistcoat, right shoulder to hem length: 70.0cm (approx)
  • Waistcoat, chest under armholes circumference: 97.0cm (approx)
  • Breeches, outside right leg, overall length: 68.5cm (approx)
  • Breeches, right inseam length: 42.0cm (approx)
  • Breeches, right waistband width: 40.0cm (approx)
  • Breeches, left waistband width: 39.5cm (approx)
Collection
Accession number
343-1886

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Record createdJune 24, 2009
Record URL
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