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Coat & Breeches

1790-1795 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

A man’s court coat and breeches of cut, uncut and voided purple silk velvet. The coat has a 3¼-inch (8.3 cm) standing collar, 2-piece sleeves ending in cuffs 3¾ inches (9.4 cm) deep. The fronts curve from neck to hem with pleats 3¼ inches (8.3 cm) deep, below the hip set beside the centre back. Each front has a pocket and shaped pocket flap; the centre-back seam is open below the hip. The back and sleeves are lined with fustian, the fronts, skirts and pocket flaps are lined with ivory silk satin, the pockets with bleached linen. The coat is embroidered-to-shape with silk floss in shades of green, pink, terracotta, blue, lilac, yellow and white in a pattern of large flowers, on the collar, cuffs and pocket flaps, around the pockets, along the fronts and centre-back opening. There are 9 embroidered buttons along the right front, 3 on each cuff, 3 below each pocket, and 1 and the top and hem of the pleats. The coat fastens with 2 pairs of hooks and eyes on the fronts at chest level.

The breeches comprise 2 fronts, two backs and 2 waistbands. The back legs are cut higher than the fronts and gathered into the back of the waistbands. There is a watch pocket in each front waistband. The breeches close with buttoned front waistbands and a fall front. The waistbands, pockets and fall fronts are lined with fustian; the legs are unlined. Five self-covered fasten the waistband; 2 embroidered buttons fasten the fall fronts. There are 2 self-covered buttons on the back waistbands and 2 on the front. There are 4 worked buttonholes and 4 embroidered buttons on the outside of each leg above the knee. The knee bands are embroidered in white, blue, yellow and green silk floss.

The fastening of the back waistbands of the breeches has been altered, probably in the 18th century, with 2 pieces of black silk, each with three eyelets, the gap between them filled with black silk.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 2 parts.

  • Coat
  • Breeches
Materials and techniques
Silk, linen, cotton; hand-woven, hand-embroidered, hand-sewn.
Brief description
Man's court coat and breeches, 1790-95, French/English; purple figured velvet, embroidered
Physical description
A man’s court coat and breeches of cut, uncut and voided purple silk velvet. The coat has a 3¼-inch (8.3 cm) standing collar, 2-piece sleeves ending in cuffs 3¾ inches (9.4 cm) deep. The fronts curve from neck to hem with pleats 3¼ inches (8.3 cm) deep, below the hip set beside the centre back. Each front has a pocket and shaped pocket flap; the centre-back seam is open below the hip. The back and sleeves are lined with fustian, the fronts, skirts and pocket flaps are lined with ivory silk satin, the pockets with bleached linen. The coat is embroidered-to-shape with silk floss in shades of green, pink, terracotta, blue, lilac, yellow and white in a pattern of large flowers, on the collar, cuffs and pocket flaps, around the pockets, along the fronts and centre-back opening. There are 9 embroidered buttons along the right front, 3 on each cuff, 3 below each pocket, and 1 and the top and hem of the pleats. The coat fastens with 2 pairs of hooks and eyes on the fronts at chest level.

The breeches comprise 2 fronts, two backs and 2 waistbands. The back legs are cut higher than the fronts and gathered into the back of the waistbands. There is a watch pocket in each front waistband. The breeches close with buttoned front waistbands and a fall front. The waistbands, pockets and fall fronts are lined with fustian; the legs are unlined. Five self-covered fasten the waistband; 2 embroidered buttons fasten the fall fronts. There are 2 self-covered buttons on the back waistbands and 2 on the front. There are 4 worked buttonholes and 4 embroidered buttons on the outside of each leg above the knee. The knee bands are embroidered in white, blue, yellow and green silk floss.

The fastening of the back waistbands of the breeches has been altered, probably in the 18th century, with 2 pieces of black silk, each with three eyelets, the gap between them filled with black silk.
Marks and inscriptions
G E Frere, Esq (Handwritten in black ink on parchment and sewn to back left waistband of breeches)
Collection
Accession number
875-1894

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Record createdJune 24, 2009
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